Message text written by Graham McMicken
>I'm 16, and I own a TR6. The tapered bolt securing the clutch fork to the
cross shaft has snapped, and it needs to be replaced. The pin snags the
shaft just about at the point where the clutch should be fully engaged. My
question is, I have some washers under the slave cylinder to lengthen the
stroke of the piston. I have a feeling that this could not be doing any
good for the clutch, as since the stroke starts higher, the full force of
the slave cylinder does not all go to moving the rod, as it is comming up
so high, that it kinda tends to push the whole transmission backward. My
question is whether there is any negative impact on exerting this force on
the tranny. I would like to fix it, but my cheapo dad doesnt have the
money, and doesnt want to lend me the garage to fix it in. If you dont
quite understand what I'm trying to tell you, il give a better explanation.
Thanks for all your help.
<
Graham, been there, done that. Only with an MGB.
The TR6 clutch system employs a self adjusting scheme. There is a small
spring in the slave cylinder that applies light pressure to the piston to
take up all the slack at the slave cylinder and keeps the throw-out bearing
lightly pressed against the pressure plate. Shimming the slave cylinder
will only cause it to self-adjust to a different position. Only when you
reach the point that the full retracted position causes the throw-out
bearing to hold the pressure plate in the partially (or fully) disengaged
position that you run the risk of bottoming out the pressure plate at full
slave cylinder extension which can cause colateral damage.
The worst case scenario of operating the clutch with a broken taper pin is
that the pin will someday fail to snag on it's remnant and the cluch will
becomr unoperable. Also, when this happens, the slave cylinder piston will
fail to return properly and continued operation of the clutch pedal will
pump the piston right out the end of the slave cylinder. (actually, the
piston will reach a point where the seal no longer contacts the cylinder
wall and the fluid will leak out and the piston will probably remain
partially in the bore - but the end result is the same - no clutch).
Your can may continue to run as is but start making plans to fix it in the
event that your clutch goes away. And learn to shift without the clutch
(just in case).
Dave
71 TR6
P.S. please note that the TR3 did not employ this self adjusting feature.
Some people prefer this since it can be manually adjusted to hold the
throw-out bearing ever so slightly away from the pressure plate. But
unless someone retrofitted your car with a TR3 slave cylinder, you can
ignore this last comment.
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