> Looks like both the top and bottom bearings around the steering box are
damaged.
> Now what?
> Do I have to take out the whole column to get at the one at the top of the
box?
> Or is there a procedure to just take out the bottom portion?
I'm sure I wrote this up not too long ago, but I can't find it now. Rats.
Anyway, I definitely recommend removing the entire box from the car at this
point. If you have the later split column, the box can be removed without
removing the front apron or the upper column, but it's still a fair amount
of work.
Disconnect the wires that go through the stator tube, lay them out in front.
Loosen the three grub screws that hold the control head to the steering hub
and pull the head back until the wires just barely protrude from the tube
(this is easier if you have help but can be done by one person). Then
loosen the gland nut and pull the tube out (with the wires still inside it).
Remove the lower bolt on the clamp between the two halves of the column, and
yank upwards on the steering wheel to separate the clamp. Remove the
silentbloc from the Pitman (drop) arm. (Don't try to use a "pickle fork"
type separator, as it will ruin the silentbloc. Find the "pinch" type.)
Remove the two bolts that hold the box to the frame, and loosen the two
pinch bolts that clamp the box itself into the bracket. Remove the two
bolts that support the upper end of the lower column. Now remove the two
bolts that hold the LH motor mount to the frame. Use a jack or hoist to
raise the engine, and tilt it to the right, until you can swing the lower
column out and up between the motor and the bracket on the frame. With some
jockeying about, you should now be able to remove the steering box from the
car (with the Pitman arm still attached).
If you only need to change the bearings, you may be able to "get away with"
not removing the Pitman arm. However, the peg is usually worn, and not too
expensive, so you'll probably want to replace it. It's best to remove the
worm first, as otherwise you may bang the peg into the worm and damage them
both. Mark the arm and shaft so you can reassemble them in the same
relative position later. A proper Pitman arm puller of the right size would
definitely be preferable, but I was able to make do by adding some side
braces (to keep the jaws from spreading and slipping off) to a rather hefty
2-arm gear puller I have.
Having avoided it for many years, and being amazed at the difference it made
when I finally did it, I would definitely recommend replacing the bushing
and seal while the box is out. A local club member mentioned machining the
upper part of the box to accept a second bushing, which is something I plan
to try next time.
When reassembling, I recommend the use of a dial gage and magnetic mount
(the kit is usually available from Enco for around $25, AX505-1848 is
currently on sale for $17.99) for setting the bearing clearances. I clamped
the bracket in the vice, and arranged the magnetic mount and dial gage so
that the plunger was in-line with the column and resting on the end of the
column. Turn the shaft back and forth as you evenly tighten the bolts
through the end plate, so you can note immediately if something starts to
bind. The goal is zero clearance with no preload, so add shims until you
can measure the clearance, then remove shims for exactly the clearance you
measured.
Once the end play is just right, adjust the screw in the top cover until
there is just the very slightest of drag as you turn the box through center.
If the worm (or peg) is worn, the tight spot may not be at center.
I think that's all the tricky parts, let me know if you have more questions.
Randall
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