> Looks like I have a radiator leak at the seam at the tank or at the neck.
> None of the stopleaks worked for long.
> I guess removing the radiator is a slam dunk and/or a piece of cake right?
> <.. I guess not :-( ...>
> Any helpful hints on removing it? Any shortcuts?
> When you remove the front panel, the apron, must the bumpers be removed?
> A few short procedural steps would be appreciated.
Ray, I've heard it said that the radiator can be removed without removing
the apron, but by removing the cylinder head, water pump and housing,
probably the fan, etc. I've never tried it tho ...
On a 3A, the front bumper and overriders have to come off. Disconnect the
wiring to the headlights and front marker lights (marking wires as necessary
so you can put them back later), and remove the grille. Remove the 4 bolts
behind the grille (holding the shelf to the inner fenders), the support rods
to the crank guide, and the cardboard ductwork (if present). Then remove
about a zillion bolts at each vertical seam, holding the apron to the outer
fenders. A GearWrench comes in real handy here, since an ordinary ratchet
won't fit. If any of those bolts are rusty, you'll also need Vice Grips and
an assortment of swear words when the captive nuts turn in their cages.
Find another way to support the hood (I use a bungee cord to the rafters)
and remove 4 bolts under the hood that hold the apron cross brace to the
brackets on the inner fenders. I think that's everything, but I may have
forgotten a few <g>
I'm not sure what works best, trying to remove the fender beads or leaving
them there. My current car didn't have them when I got it, and I've been
fortunate enough to not have to pull the apron since I installed the beads.
Anyway, with everything loose (don't forget to pull the wires out of their
clips), pull the bottom of the apron forward about 2" or so, then lift the
whole apron straight up.
Assembly is the reverse <g>
Randall
|