Hello listers and THANK YOU!
On a recent post I expressed some frustration on finding water in
the oil of my just finished rebuild of my TR2's TR3 engine. Thanks to
everyone, especially Bob Kramer, Randall Young, Paul Burr, Pete Ryner
(sp?), Jeffrey Barteet, and Mike Kitchener. From the group there were
several first rate suggestions, but more importantly some wonderful
words of encouragement, support and empathy. Yes, some of you have BEEN
THERE and have DONE THAT with probably more reason for frustration than
I have had. Your response shows me once again what this list serve is
all about and how valuable it can be. Thanks again to all who
responded. I hope I have not missed anyone.
There is good news to report. The machinist who did my shop work
is a good old fellow who is patient with a novice and is particular
about his work. I told him about the water in the oil and he suggested
that I relax and reassess things. He offered that sometimes an engine
will leak on a first run after a rebuild and then seat and seal through
pressure, vibration and heat expansion alone. He also said that in the
old days it was commonplace to place sealant pellets in the water jacket
of a finished head to help seal from the inside out following rebuild
work. He suggested that I change the oil and run the engine again to
see if it still "milked" the oil. I did, and I got no water in the oil
at all.
I still decided to use a block seal. I was advised not to use the
pellet material that would fix a leaking radiator. If it can plug a
hole in the radiator, it could possible plug places where water is
supposed to flow inside the engine. Instead I used a sodium silicate
material from K&W. This is a material that cannot be mixed with
antifreezes or it will plug the cooling system. I drained and flushed
the engine and then ran the engine with the cooling system closed for a
least twenty minutes and then flushed some more. During this run time
of about forty-five minutes in all (without the sealer) there were no
leaks at all. Finally I ran the engine with the sealer for about thirty
minutes and I blocked air flow to the radiator to increase the heat and
pressure in the system. Again there was no water in the oil. I then
drained the cooling system and left hoses, pitcocks, etc. open to allow
for drying. I let it sit for 36 hours and then filled the radiator and
engine with clear water, fired the engine and flushed thoroughly again.
Still no leaks and no water in the oil! Next step will be to add the
antifreeze mixture and do a road test. I am fully confident that it
will be ok. I have even refitted the front apron and the hood. I have
the transmission tunnel cover in place and everything is ready to go.
(On refitting the slave cylinder the clutch is working fine too.)
One problem remains. The flex lines from the fuel feed line to the
banjo fittings were shot and leaking badly. My fuel pump gave up during
the year of being in a box. It delivered only a trickle of fuel, just
enough to leak but not enough to feed the engine. The carb bowls leaded
badly too. In trying to tighten the new bolts and the new gaskets where
bowl bolts to the carb I over did it and ruined the new gaskets. New
parts should be in tomorrow from Moss. ----- Wouldn't you know it,
that is when our beautiful Indian summer if forecasted to end. I DON'T
CARE! Even without a heater and without windows (I do have new side
curtains) I am going to drive the beast!
My confidence is renewed. Again, thanks listers!
Rob Blubaugh
Rensselaer, Indiana (Home of a happy TR2, purring smoothly and soon to
be on the road again.)
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