> Has anyone ever replaced the lower (outer) front
> control arm bushings on a TR4? These baby's are stuck
> (press fit for 40+ years) and they are very slim (not
> much to press out)...
Dave, the TR4 bushings are identical to those on my TR3, which I've had out.
I made up a small mandrel, about twice as long as the A-arm is wide, with
slightly less than half of it the right diameter to just slip into the
bushing (ISTR 5/8"), and the remainder just small enough to slip through the
hole without the bushing (ISTR 3/4"). Having only a drill press at the
time, I just bought a length of 3/4" smooth rod at the hardware store,
drilled and tapped it for a bolt with the head cut off, then chucked the
bolt in the drill press and used a file to cut down the 5/8" portion (using
a new bushing as a gage). You could probably use a drill motor if you don't
have access to a press.
With the mandrel, I was able to press the old bushings out, and the new ones
in, using only my bench vise.
Don't forget, you'll need a reamer too.
> I'm thinking of a drill press right about now.
This would be a very difficult drilling job, as the drill bit will want to
bite into the soft brass and bind. A bit designed for brass would help
some, but it would still be a PITA. Be sure to have the A-arm bolted down,
so it doesn't get loose and break a finger or worse when the drill bit grabs
it.
An easier way would be to cut through the bushing with a hacksaw (stopping
before you cut into the A-arm, although a small notch won't hurt anything),
and then knock it out with a punch and BFH.
> One other question is related to the metal sleeve that
> rides inside the nylon (inner - lower) control arm
> bushing. The old sleeve has fused itself to the pivot
> shaft so well that I think even a nuke might not get
> it off and in the process the entire shaft would
> probably come with it. At this point I am thinking it
> will be fine to leave the old sleeves (worn) in place
> with the new nylon bushings over the top (pig in a
> blanket)! Thoughts?
Buy, beg or borrow a Dremel-type moto-tool (HF has a 12v DC one on sale for
$10 at the moment, almost free considering all the burrs that come with it)
and use the abrasive cutoff disc to slit the old sleeve as much as you can
without cutting into the pin or the bearing surface. Spread the slot with a
cold chisel and BFH, if necessary you can even continue the slot to the
inner edge with the chisel (or with the Dremel and a small grinding stone).
Once it's spread a bit, it should slip right off.
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver TS39781LO (sidelined for OD gearbox install)
63 Sports 6 rustoration project HB7826LCV
71 Stag daily driver Real Soon Now LE1473L
/// triumphs@autox.team.net mailing list
/// To unsubscribe send a plain text message to majordomo@autox.team.net
/// with nothing in it but
///
/// unsubscribe triumphs
///
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
|