In a message dated 19-Jul-01 18:34:30 Eastern Daylight Time, kmr@pil.net
writes:
> However, upon trying to get moving again I was unable to,
> but I was able to jam the gearbox into third and get back home. Initial
> thoughts were that the TR6 clutch fork pin had broken, nope... pulling the
> gearbox revealed that was okay. No hydraulic leaks, still getting 5/16" of
> an inch movement at the pushrods... hmm, so I didn't think it was a clutch
> master or slave cylinder issue. Okay it finally had to be the clutch master
> cylinder, the only indication was the pedal being a little mushy. Upon
> disassembly, the piston spring was found in four pieces all bound up in the
> rear of the cylinder; the piston itself was blown out with compressed air.
> I had rebuilt the master cylinder in the summer of 1999, but hadn't replaced
> the spring. Two dollars spent in 1999, would have saved me six hours of
> work in 2001. So replace your piston springs during your next cylinder
> rebuild (if they are available for your car)!
>
>
Kai, FWIW, it is possible to drive a manual shift car with an inoperable
clutch. To do so all you need to do is rev the engine until it reaches the
proper speed when each gear will engage. Light pressure on the shift lever
while slowly revving the engine will result in the gear going in without
grinding. I once drove 90 miles on a Sunday (no service stations were
available) with an inoperable clutch. I used all the gears during that
drive. (That boosted my stock with the "better half" who thought we were done
for). The trick is to not force the shift lever. Cheers.
Art Kelly
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