The hinge pins seem to vary a good deal, if yours are old there may not be a
way to get the pin out without ruining the hinge. The problem with drilling
is that the body of the hinge is softer than the pin, it's almost impossible
to get a drill bit to follow the pin and not cut into the body.
My suggestion : remove the hinges from the car, then break a toothpick in
half and drive the two halves in between the 'tongue' of the boot part of
the hinge, and the 'ear' of the scuttle part, so that the tongue is forced
tightly against the other ear. Then lay the hinge down on a very solid
surface (I use the jaws of my 5" vise) with a hole or slot in it (leave the
jaws open by 1/8" or so), and use a pin punch and BFH to tap the pin out.
This is one of those areas where a BFH used with finesse really is better
than a smaller hammer (eg carpenter's hammer) used with anger. The extra
shock helps get the pin moving, without transmitting as much force to the
ears. (In case you hadn't guessed, the upper ear frequently breaks during
this operation, hence the toothpick.) If you have one, a "stubborn pin"
punch is a good idea too. IE instead of the usual 2" or so small diameter of
a normal pin punch, use one that has been cut down to only 1/4" or so. It's
more rigid, and again will help start the pin moving without breaking the
ear. Less likely to break, too. Broken long punches make good starting
points for short ones, but be sure to grind the end flat and square.
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver - waiting for hinge pin installation <g>
January Williams wrote :
>
> We bought a Moss/europe luggage rack for the brother-in-law's
> TR3A, the kind
> that mounts on the hinges.
> The hinge pins don't want to drift out. Do they have to be
> removed from the
> car and drilled out? -- no instructions with package.
> Any suggestions would be appreciated . . .
> thanks
> january
> 66 TR4A CTC74217LO
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