Hi Tim
If you drive the cruciform too far you can do damage to the edges of the
holes for the cups, if this happens it is not detrimental until you fit the
new cups so be sure to remove the burs thrown up on the edges if they are
there, the technique I usually use is to drive them so far using a socket
that fits inside the yoke and a socket that fits over the cup to press the
cup in then tap the yoke back the other way and encourage the needle rollers
to fall over in the bottom of one of the cups to allow it to be pushed a bit
further out until the bottom of the cup can be gripped in a vice or with
mole grips and pulled out.
Graham.
2.5 PI MKII
Sprinted Dolomite
2000 MKI
Toledo
1300 Front Wheel Drive
http://www.triumph-iw.co.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Gaines" <mtgaines@cs1.presby.edu>
To: <TRIUMPHS@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 5:21 PM
Subject: universal joint disassembly?
>
> I just spent a couple of hours removing the universal joint
> from a hub assembly. I wanted to be very careful not to damage
> anything, but in the end I destroyed the bearing caps. Everything
> else is okay though, and I had already ordered new U-joints, so its
> no great loss. But I figure there is something in the procedure I am
> missing. The Haynes manual says to remove the retaining clips and then
> tap on the yoke with a soft metal hammer until the caps start to come
> come out. I didn't have a soft metal hammer, but I was careful to
> hold a piece of oak over the yoke when I hit it. Sure enough, after
> many hits the caps came out about about 1/8 inch each, but that was
> it. I used WD40 and penetrating oil, but no amount of banging would
> get those caps farther out. So what is the secret? What would a
> machine shop use to do the job? For the life of me I can't see how
> a press would be much use in getting BOTH caps out.
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Gaines
> Clinton, SC
> 1980 Spitfire
> 1974 TR6
>
>
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