Dennis,
I did that too, but only after I was able to get the spider out.
Otherwise there was no room to get a socket inside the yoke, or am
I missing something?
Tim
>I used two sockets; one that fit inside the yoke pushing on one bearing cap
>and the other that was larger than the hole for the other bearing cap.
>Pressure on the smaller socket pushed the bearing cap into the larger one.
>Wasn't easy as the DPO had previously allowed my cousin to drive the car
>thru some Rocky Mtn streams and thus they were pretty rusted. Kerosene will
>also help "cut" thru the rust. I didn't like the idea of pounding on the
>yoke with a hammer, so opted for this approach. Worked with no damage to
>the yoke.
>Hope this helps.
>Dennis
>75 SPIT
>
>
>I just spent a couple of hours removing the universal joint
>from a hub assembly. I wanted to be very careful not to damage
>anything, but in the end I destroyed the bearing caps. Everything
>else is okay though, and I had already ordered new U-joints, so its
>no great loss. But I figure there is something in the procedure I am
>missing. The Haynes manual says to remove the retaining clips and then
>tap on the yoke with a soft metal hammer until the caps start to come
>come out. I didn't have a soft metal hammer, but I was careful to
>hold a piece of oak over the yoke when I hit it. Sure enough, after
>many hits the caps came out about about 1/8 inch each, but that was
>it. I used WD40 and penetrating oil, but no amount of banging would
>get those caps farther out. So what is the secret? What would a
>machine shop use to do the job? For the life of me I can't see how
>a press would be much use in getting BOTH caps out.
>
>Thanks for any advice.
>
>Tim
>
>Tim Gaines
>Clinton, SC
>1980 Spitfire
>1974 TR6
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