A word of caution!!!
The stud holes in the block are Whitworth threads! If you run an SAE tap into
these, you will make them too large, and without the correct thread angle!
Clean the holes with a good solvent, and use a stainless steel bore cleaning
brush, something on the order of a 20-gauge shotgun, or a .45 caliber pistol
cleaning brush.
Lay the block on its side so the solvent will flow out.
Also, note that the original studs have a slot that runs parallel to the axis of
the stud, cut into the threads. This will do a nice job of chasing the block's
threads!
Cheers...
Graham Stretch wrote:
> Hi Adrian
> Fitting the studs should be easier than you think, if the threads have all
> been cleaned and the holes cleaned out with a tap then the studs should
> screw in with your fingers! Make sure you fit the right end in the block as
> they are generally different lengths and often have a small groove cut up
> the end that fits into the block (metal end) and not on the end that takes
> the nut (nut end). If not then the two nuts works, don't spin the first nut
> all the way down in case they move as this could damage the nut, the top nut
> is the one you should use the spanner on for installing the studs, lock the
> two together first! Loctite, your choice, it will probably break when you
> torque the head down! Re torque (will break Loctite on the nuts,so don't use
> any here) the head as often as you like, it may be overkill but I do mine,
> heat and cool = re-torque, 500 miles = re-torque, 1000 miles = re-torque and
> then every time the mileage passes a multiple of 25,000 miles, I have still
> had head gaskets blow but I feel better knowing the head is torqued down
> regularly, I feel I have done everything in my power to prevent them going.
> When they have gone it has often been after extremely hard work, the last
> one went after I used my 2000 MKI to tow a large trailer with a Dolomite
> Sprint on it. I would have towed it on a rope or bar but I thought it (the
> car not the rope) may snap in two!
>
> Graham.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Adrian Jones <AdrianJones@compuserve.com>
> To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2000 12:39 PM
> Subject: TR3 - Installing Head studs.
>
> >
> > Hi Folks,
> > Is there a proper technique for installing cylinder head studs?
> > As I'll be putting in new studs, nuts and washers, I don't want to mess it
> > up.
> >
> > A "double-nut" method is used in the Haynes manual - it shows two
> > spanners/wrenches being used.
> >
> > Do you just spin two nuts down the stud and install by tightening on the
> > top one, at the same time gripping the lower one with a wrench?
> > Is the first nut spun all the way to the bottom of the threads?
> > Is Loctite used on the threads going into the block?
> > How tight?
> > When the head goes on, is Locktite used on the nuts?
> > What's the current thinking on " rechecking the torque after 500 miles" or
> > "retorquing after its warmed up and cooled down"?
> > Am I thinking too much?
> >
> > Many Thanks, Adrian (Anxiously waiting on news from machine shop re.
> head)
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