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re: TR6 oil filter

To: "'Triumphs List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>, "'vinttr4@geneseo.net'" <vinttr4@geneseo.net>
Subject: re: TR6 oil filter
From: "Hutmacher, Greg" <ghutmacher@stanleyworks.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 14:42:59 -0400charset="iso-8859-1"
Jack,
        I installed a new spin on oil filter kit in my TR6 weekend before
last (yes, I finally gave in after years of struggling with the mess of the
cannister). A couple of points I found during my installation: To get the
old cannister out (as you learned, you cannot remove it on a left hand drive
car without disconnecting something), I simply removed the two bolts that
hold the clutch slave cylinder to the transmission without disconnecting
anything hydraulic. Of course, you have to remove the pin and disconnect the
slave cylinder push rod from the transmission fork arm, but that is trivial.
With the slave cylinder hanging down out the way just a little, I was able
to slip the old oil filter cannister through to remove it. I felt that this
was easier than disconnecting fuel lines or hydraulic pipes and no bleeding
was necessary. I'm sure there are other alternatives.
        Once I got the new spin on adapter installed, I found that, with it
installed in the straight down position, the new spin on filter would not
clear the clutch slave cylinder assembly (mainly, the hydraulic line coming
down to the front of the slave cylinder). So, I simply rotated the spin on
adapter slightly forward (say, to the 7 o'clock position instead of 6
o'clock) just enough to clear the clutch hydraulics. It works great. I think
that some people use a shorter filter and perhaps the shorter filter does
not interfere. But I went with the Roadster Factory's recommended filter (I
think its a Fram PH3600? I'll have to look at the number when I get home)
and it is a little deeper. I've been told that the deeper filter (more
square inches of filter area) provides for a longer filtering efficiency
life-span than the shorter version (Oh, no! This is probably how some of
these heated debates begin!).
        There doesn't seem to be any downside to the spin on adapter. Its
quick, clean, the filters are cheap and can be bought down the street (the
Fram PH3600 is extremely common to many other cars), and, as someone else
pointed out, you can pre-fill the filter in order to reduce that critical
interval of no oil pressure when starting the engine after an oil change.
I'm sure you'll be happy with it. Don't wait two decades like I did! :-)
Regards, Greg Hutmacher  76 TR6

>Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 16:17:47 -0500
>From: Jack W Drews <vinttr4@geneseo.net>
>Subject: TR6 oil filter


>Well, I changed the oil for the first time in my newly-acquired 6.

>Now I know why I should have paid closer attention to the recent thread
>regarding the filter, drilling holes, changing over to spin-on, etc. 

>What a disaster!

>My cannister just plain won't come out of there with all the brake and
>fuel lines in place. If the spin-on conversion kit is used, where does
>the spin-on filter come out?
>- -- 
>uncle jack
>61 TR4 Rallye Replica Racer
>71 TR6 Street Car named Desire


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