Hutmacher, Greg wrote:
>
> Okay, I've learned my lesson...if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I made the
> mistake of trying to fine tune my Strombergs last night on my 76 TR6 even
> though they were running pretty well. I suspected my fuel/air mixture being
> a little off. Anyway, I tried out my new Colortune for the first time and
> now have totally screwed up the carb adjustment. I used the special
> adjusting tool with the hex key and the barrel that fits into the top of the
> dashpot. I got frustrated because no matter which way or how much I turned
> the adjustment tool, the Colortune never showed any changes (medium blue
> with occasional bright orange flashes). I made the mistake of continuing to
> turn the adjustment tool trying to get a deeper blue color on both carbs. I
> screwed something up because the color never changed but now the car runs
> much worse. The car idles rough where it was smooth before, when I
> accelerate hard, it seems to not have as much power and sounds "deeper". I
> also did the test where you lift the carb piston up and the idle dropped
> drastically (tried to stall). One thing I wondered is if I may have torn the
> rubber diaphram on my rear carb in trying to turn the needle because it was
> really hard to turn (as opposed to the front carb which turned fairly
> easily). This weekend, I'll take the dash pot covers off and check the
> diaphram and whatever else I can see. Any ideas? Also, what weight of oil is
> best for the dashpots? By the way, the guy at TSI told me that the
> Strombergs have almost no adjustment in the fuel air mixture. He said no
> matter how much you turn the adjustment, there is almost no change in the
> fuel air mixture on Strombergs since they are "tamper proof". This seems to
> be supported by what I saw on my Colortune. Thoughts?
> Thanks, Greg Hutmacher (bummed out because my formerly smooth running six is
> now running like crap)
Oh, yawn -- whatta bunchacrap. Of course you can adjust the fuel/air mixture.
You
just did, and that's why your car won't run anymore.
Sure -- take off the dashpots to check the diaphragms. They're probably fine,
but
if either is ripped, replace it. While you're in there, note that the
diaphragms
have a rubber tab that corresponds to a notch in the dashpot lip; they must be
reassembled correctly. Turn the dashpots over, spill out the oil, and
insert your adjustment tool, turning
it one way or the other until the shoulder of the needle is flush with the
bottom
of the piston. Reinstall the pistons, refill w/automatic transmission fluid
(to the
point where you feel pressure inserting the dampter about 1/4 inch before it
threads in), and start your tuning process over again.
For a simple guide to tuning the carbs, go the maintenance section of
www.vtr.org.
When you make your mixture adjustments, I suggest that you do them in 1/4 turn
increments.
(The fact that your car stalls when you nudge up the piston indicates that the
carb
is adjusted too lean -- i.e., the needle is sitting too far down in the jet. To
compensate for this, you will need to "lift" the needle -- to do so, turn the
adjuster
clockwise.)
Then post to the list that you have a nice Colortune unit for sale (grinny
face).
--
Martin Secrest
72 TR6
73 GT6
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