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Re: Some possibly dumb questions!

To: "Brad Kahler" <brad.kahler@141.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Some possibly dumb questions!
From: Cliff Hansen <chansen@anr.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 20:59:49 -0500
At 08:28 PM 2/2/99 -0600, Brad Kahler wrote:
>
>Listers,
>
>I just finished pulling the tranny off the back end of the engine and the 
>engine is now hanging from the hoist.  I've also pulled the flywheel off in 
>preperation for mating the engine to a stand.  Since this is the first
time I've 
>ever put an engine on an stand my questions are,

Brad, I'd never have guessed this was your first time :-)

>1)     The block has two 3/8" holes for where the starter bolts to it and all 
>of 
>the rest of the holes are 5/16"x24 tapped holes.  It would appear obvious 
>that these are the holes that I'm going to have to use for the engine
stand.  
>So should I use the two 3/8" holes for the starter on the right side and
then 
>just pick a couple of the 5/16 tapped holes on the left side?

You can use the two 5/16" holes at the 11 and 1 o'clock positions on
the top.  Use a 5/16" hole on the driver's side, and pass a long bolt
through the bottom starter mount hole, securing with a nut.

>2)     What grade should the bolts be?  Grade 5 or grade 8?  My particular 
>engine stand has clearance holes in the mounts for about 1/2" bolts so I'm 
>going to have to use some washers to make up the difference.

I don't worry about the bolts being smaller than the holes in the
engine stand.  Just sung the bolts up to steady the block against the
stand.  Use some washers if you need to shim between the block and
stand.  Also, I don't see a need for grade 8 (or even 5.)  Grade 2 5/16"
fasteners are supposed to hold around 1.5 tons, and you're using
4 of them.  Details at http://www.fwi.com/nucor/tds009c.html

>I realize these are probably pretty basic questions but I don't really
want to 
>have the block land on the floor or worse yet my foot!

Neither would I!

>Any other tips would be greatly appreciated!

Always double check that parts are fastened down _before_ turning the
block over.

If you are going to remove and replace the rear main seal, its awkward
with the engine on the stand.

>TIA
>
>Brad  (Lincoln Nebraska 402-464-1502)
>My Web Site Http://www.141.com/triumphs (updated 12/3/98)
>
>1964 Spitfire4 BFC25720L -- 1973 Spitfire 1500 FM3353U
>1962 TR4 CT288L          -- 1965 TR4 CT38888LO parts car?
>1959 TR3A TS41311L       -- 1959 TR3A TS53523L parts car
>1951 Dodge Truck B-3-B-108
>
Cliff Hansen


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