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Re: Veneer for TR6 fascia

To: "'triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Veneer for TR6 fascia
From: "Frank Biedermann" <frank@ssabsa.sa.gov.au>
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 11:52:10 +1030charset="iso-8859-1"
Importance: Normal
Martin Secrest wrote:

> Frank :

(not this one, the other one)

>
> Presumably you'll use contact cement to attach the veneer -- other
> glues are too viscous and will wrinkle the thin wood upon absorption.
> And when you do press the veneer into place, do yourself a favor and use
> a roller.  Without one, it's likely you won't be able to avoid leaving
> "bubbles" in the veneer, and/or said bubbles will show up later, after the
> dash is installed.  Ask me how I know.

There is another option - I recently re-veneered the dash in my
TR6 (with walnut burr veneer - very nice), and stuck it on by -
you probably won't believe this - ironing it on! The procedure is
as follows: First get yourself some YELLOW woodworking glue (I think
it's got a higher proportion of aliphatic compounds in it - I'd have to
confirm that by looking up a magazine article that a friend owns).
You spray one side (the good side) of the veneer lightly with water
and evenly coat the other side with the glue (the water puts moisture
on the good side of the veneer to counteract the curling which you would
otherwise get from wetting one side only with glue). Also coat the dash
with the glue. Wait for the glue to dry. Mate up the two pieces and use
an iron on a low setting (no steam) to iron the veneer on (its also
a good idea to put a thin piece of cloth over the veneer before ironing -
just don't use your best tablecloth). No bubbles, ripples or anything
else... Effectively what you're doing is melting the glue, which has
no effect on its bonding properties. It apparently also works using
standard aquadhere (?sp) but the iron setting has to be lower. This
method also has the advantage of letting you line the pieces up precisely
before they start sticking to each other (ie before you iron them
together). It's also a very good idea to try out different iron settings
on a scrap piece of veneer, and a good flat piece of wood because if
it's too low the pieces won't stick properly, and if it's too high you'll
wreck the bonding properties of the glue. When you get it right it's
impossible to get the veneer off without wrecking it or the wood underneath
or both.


Frank Biedermann
'69 TR6
Adelaide, Australia.
work e-mail: frank@ssabsa.sa.gov.au
home e-mail: frankb@camtech.net.au


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