I have the same problem with my TR4A solid axle. I tightened the U
bolt which secures the axle. It seemed to help, but I think, there is
still another cause. Anybody have any ideas?
D. Brown
-----Original Message-----
From: rgb@exact.com <rgb@exact.com>
To: jmike@sky.net <jmike@sky.net>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, May 30, 1998 9:35 AM
Subject: Re: TR6 Steering and tracking, when under acceleration
>
>
>>under acceleration with His six, and when acceleration ended suddenly,
>>the car would have a tendency to want to wander around as the torque
changed
>
>Throttle steer, this is generally a symptom of excessively powered
cars...
>
>In the case of the TR6, this is a symptom of worn trailing arm bushings
>casing the actual alignment of the rear tires to vary. This also
happens
>in S-turns, etc. by the way... Its dangerous and puts excess stress on
>the pieces back there while snapping back and forth. Not to mention
have
>the half-shafts driving the wheels at all sorts of un-natural angles.
>
>I use the TRF Nylatron bushings packed with synthetic grease, the
material
>is somewhat self-lubing and comes with the shims to adjust the side t-
>side clearance. The poly works just as well, but the material isn't
>self-lubing and the BPNW kit comes with NO shims. I use BPNW poly diff
>mounts and poly shock link mounts with the TRF Nylatron bushings.
>
>While back there install new brake lines, new slip joint boots (grease
these)
>new Apple Heavy Duty rebuilt levers with NEW shock links. I use stock
>springs with shims as required, the stiffening of everything else gives
>you a crisp ride without the jarring and ride height problems of all
the
>"uprated" springs... crispness, not stiffness.
>
>The trailing arms can be removed by pulling the outside hinge pin,
removing
>one of the inside bracket bolts and rotating till you can slide the
inside
>hinge pin over the frame... I leave the emergency line hooked up and
pivot
>the whole mess outward to get to the bushings with the 8" Craftsman
C-clamp
>and block of wood.
>
>If you're replacing original bushings, you'll note the rear bumper
raises
>at least 1". If you look at these sagging things you can see the sag
>in the hinge joint...
>
>Roger
>
>--
>Roger G. Bolick, rgb@exact.com 512-794-9567, FAX 512-345-2879
>
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