Tom,
The starter technique worked for me on my Mazda MX3 when I changed the
timing belt -- very effective. In this case however, it's a $1000 parts..er
project car (I guess I wanted a challenge) The battery is out because it's
dead so I'd already tried jumper cables. Although the car started (but didn't
run) about 6 weeks ago, this time the starter wouldn't turn over. Even
jumpered 12v directly to the solenoid. Pulled out the starter, looked OK,
and jumpered it out of the car. Of course it spun up quite nicely thank you
very much. Put it back in, jumpered it and it tuned over but not enough
torque to break the bolt loose (probably because I was using jumper cables
rather than a battery installed in the car). Anyway, took out the starter
again
and went to the loose tooth method. That's where you jam a crowbar in the
flywheel ring gear and use a long breaker bolt on the bolt, sometimes the
crowbar jumps out and hits you in the mouth or the teeth on the ring gear
drop off into the bell housing. Fortunately no loose teeth but I had to stand
on the breaker bar about 3 times for a total of about 3/4 of a turn before I
could turn it by hand.
What's my point Tom? Your method, and I would have tried it if this didn't
work, would have required me to jack up and drop the car about 6 times. Oh
yes, and the 3/4 turn explains why when I jammed the breaker bar against
the frame and used my wife's blazer to push the TR while it was in gear, I
felt it move and thought I'd broken it loose until I tried to turn it by hand.
Thanks for taking an interest in my problem Tom and Jim, it's the kind of
support that helps a person go out and try something else even when they
don't think they'll ever get the problem licked.
Many thanks,
Andy
On 01/05/98 08:04 PM Linda Long (IM) said...
>
>
>
>
>>
> Jim,
>Your suggested technique got me thinking of a variation to your method.
>Use a breaker bar and box end wrench. Jack the front end up. Position
>the wrench/breaker bar on the bolt at a 4 o'clock position. Make sure
>car is in gear. lower the car to the ground and let gravity take over.
>If this doesn't work there is always the neighbor's pet mule!
>
>bye for now
>
>Tom Long
>
>64TR4
>68TR250
>>76TR6
>
>>Greetings all,
>> FWIW, I have successfully removed this bolt on different cars more
>> than once by using a breaker bar (or a long bar on the end of a
>> ratchet), with the socket on the crank bolt, and positioning the crank
>> such that the end of the bar just is on the ground. Then use the
>> starter to rotate the engine for a moment, and voila! the bolt just
>> spins right off. Of course, you have to use common sense, of which
>> there does not appear to be much on this list, so I will itemize the
>> caveats:
>> 1. The direction of engine rotation combined with the "handedness" of
>> the threads must be such that the bolt will be loosened, not
>> tightened.
>> 2. It helps if the ground is hard, like pavement or concrete,
>> otherwise your assembly will have to be dug out of the earth, and the
>> bolt will still be on the crank.
>> 3. Avoid having the car actually start. I have heard that LBCs can
>> occasionally fire right up, even without a ballast resistor!
>> 4. Using a torque wrench is tempting but the wrench may be damaged.
>>
>> I'd like to hear how you ultimately get it off, as this is on my list
>> in a while.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Jim Wallace
>> near Ottawa, Canada
>> '60 TR3a
>> **************************
>> Andy,
>> I replaced the gasket on my TR6's Timing cover several years ago.
>> That extension bolt is right hand (normal) treaded so keep on tugging.
>> Mine was a real bear to get off also. I forget the size but I had to
>> borrow a neighbor's box end wrench 'cause I don't have a set that
goes
>> that large. BTW the extension is held to the crankshaft pulley by two
>> (I believe) locating dowels. So you'll have to give the extension a
>> couple of gentle taps after you finally get the big old bolt out.
>> bye for now
>> Tom Long
>>
>> >>I'm starting to disassemble the TR6's engine, just to be sure, is
>> >>the fan extension bolt right hand thread (normal)? It's being a bear
>> >>and I don't want to spend all my time tightening it if it's
>> >>reversed.
>>
>> >>Thanks
>> >>Andy
>>
>>
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