Hi Ken & GP
Has anyone checked or thought about the bump/roll steer issue?
I made a conversion for my TR3R by shortening the TR4 RACK and Body
(both on the offside only, work that can be done on a lathe only). This
kept the tie rod length unchanged,(I used a threaded, hollow adaptor
to change the tie rod end) and the steering geometry intact.
I also had a terribly close call with a "professional" welder
welding in rear hub studs.
I had a three inch long splined adaptor made that fits into the std.
upper steering column clamp and drives a TR6 metal std. steering
"U" joint, a shortened TR6 lower shaft, and a 2nd metal "U" to the
rack. The only real modification to the chasssis/body was welding
two rack mounts to a Spair chassis bolt in cross tube.
Be warned that the TR4 rack ratio is considerably slower than
the TR2/3 Box!!!
BTW my Cleveland TR3 Parts are still for sale/trade. I am working
on the inventory list. Good Luck (and Safe Engineering)
from a TR3 person & Vehicular Dynamics Consultant
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