At 12:24 PM 10/24/96 +0100, john gillis wrote:
>Hello all. As i have mentioned in previous questions to the list I am in the
>process of restoring (body off) a long door TR2. At some stage soon I will be
>re-building the engine and when I hve finished I would like to fit it to the
>chassis and without the body start it up in order to check for leaks and any
>other problems that may be more difficult to deal with once the chassis is
>fully kitted out with the body shell. Has any Tr people out there carried out
>this type of operation and how did they go about it, did they fit the radiator
>if so what about the heater and it's pipes . Can this type of exercise be
carried out without rigging up the charging system, i.e the control box
etc.. although
>you would need to fit the dynamo in order to keep tension on the fan belt.
I guess it would be best to have the gearbox in place also ??? and the
exhaust system.I have seen photos of some sort of test rig with the
necessary bits bolted to
>a piece of wood or steel in order to supply power such as ignition, solinoid
>and what ever other bits and pieces. Has anybody made up one of these and if so
>what was involved. Do you think this is a good idea at all, or is it overkill.
>While I am on the subject has anybody any words of warning or advice regarding
>re-building these units.
>Thanks in advance.
>John Gillis, 1954 TR2
>Trinity College, Dublin
>IRELAND
>
Hello John
Yes I have Rebuilt a TR3 as a running chassis. The engine and tranny must
be mounted as a unit because of the third mount on the rear of the tranny.
Attach the radiator using the frame holes only, they will be rigid enough
to hold it away from the fan. Mount the generator as an idler pully
so that the belt will turn the water pump. No other electrical except, A l2
volt battery on the floor or on the frame, ground the battery with a cable
to the engine, run a cable from the hot terminal of the battery to the
solinoid , run a cable from the second solinoid terminal to the starter, run
a small [l6 Ga] wire from the hot solinoid terminal to a flip switch then to
the battery side of the coil, mount all the high tension electrical. Install
the drive shaft , diff, and rear suspension, but not the rear wheels.
Fabricate a long lever to be bolted to the clutch arm so that the clutch can
be engaded manualy. Raise the frame onto blocks so that the motor and brake
drums clear the floor. Attach a stock or rigged exhaust system so you can
adjust the engine and cut down on fire risk. Keep an extinguisher handy. Run
a hose from the fuel pump to the fuel sorce in as remote a site as possible.
You can now do an extensive run in on the entire drive train.
Sam Haynes
TR3 original Owner
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