Bob,
Wouldn't the offset of the rim have something to do
with the rubbing on the outer fender? I'm not real familiar
with the Panasports, but they may have a shallow offset,
thus extending outward too far and rubbing the outer fender well
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From: Bob Lang[SMTP:LANG@ISIS.MIT.EDU]
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 1996 10:03 AM
To: ingate@shiseis.com
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: TR6 & 15x7 Panasports
Hi,
I do not have direct experience with 15X7 Panasports, but I can tell you
some stuff about TR6 wheels.
If you are running 205/70 X 15 tires, you will not have clearance
problems from the tires. There is a slight possibility that you can get
some rubbing at full steering lock at the front sway bar, but that's it.
Oh, you didn't say if you have stock lever-type shocks in back. If you
do, no clearance problem there. If you converted to tube shocks in back,
you _may_ have a problem.
If you have problems rubbing on the outer fender, then something is very
wrong with your suspension.
Okay, now the meat. Contrary to what you may think, any rubbing that you
might see occurs at suspension extremes. Thus, interference with the
upper "A" arm (for instance) will occur at full wheel lock. Exception: if
you have bad ball-joints or bad lower trunnion problems, you can get rub
even in a straight line, but that is an extreme condition. You should
therefore make sure the front suspension is "tight" before you put your
new expensive panasport wheels on your TR6! Also, if the "vertical link"
is bent at all, this will effect clearance to the upper "A" frame. So,
get your car aligned to make sure all is within range there. Ask the
alignment guys if there is an unusual amount of shims required to get the
camber in spec. This is an indicator of a bent vertical link or wear in
the suspension. A good shop should be able to detect this condition.
On the rear, there is also a chance for interference. However the rubbin
can take place on the inner fender on the so-called rear bump stop
bracket. The rear suspension angles in toward the body at the extremes,
and tire rub can occur on the bump stop.
Oh, and sidewall flex can come into play in really extreme circumstances.
Are you autocrossing? I can tell you some stuff about that too.
To qualify my comments, I autocross my TR6 in DSP in SCCA. I run American
Racing 4-spoke mags, 15 x 5.5 (stock width) shod with Hoosier radial road
racing tires (DOT approved!) that are 225/55 x 15. These suckers are very
wide. I get some rubbing on the front sway bar and in the rear inner
fender. I also need to run 1/4" spacers in front and 1/2" spacers in the
rear and then I run tire pressure > 40 PSI to make sure that the tires
don't flex too much under load. This is only done for AutoX, I would not
try this on a street car.
Further, a friend put Panasports on, and he had a clearance
problem in the front upper "A" arm due to suspension damage from when he
flipped the car. The camber was a little on the positive side, and that
caused the rubbing on the "A" arm.
I hope this answers your question.
rml
p.s. I'm bringin' my Hoosiers to Albany and I'm running 6 cyl. modified.
Anybody gonna try to beat me?
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