Tom,
Thank you for your reply and recommendations. I agree that "independent
brackets" are a better design choice, but for the average enthusiast it would
require more than just the expenditure of about $40 for the "installation kit",
but some design experience to choose the appropriate
mount locations and reinforcement. This would cause the movement of the fan and
radiator to be more independent, which would indeed
require a good foam seal between the shroud and the radiator, not only for air
leakage, but to prevent structural damage from independent
movement. In the manufacturer's design installation, there is no "gap" with the
outer fan shroud, as it is directly mounted to the radiator.
The "as-delivered" mount is very light, as is the fan assembly, and provides an
intimate contact with the radiator, alleviating the need for
additional sealing, and providing simultaneous instead of independent,
movement. You do make a good point, however. If a good foam seal is compressed
between the shroud and the radiator, it could isolate any "rubbing".
Again, the use of a 20-30 amp fuse, or circuit breaker is a good idea. It is
unfortunate that Rootes saw fit to protect the entire electric system
with only 2 fuses (Lucas British practice), and there is certainly no need to
compound it. Inline, fusible link, or mountable fuse holders are
readily available. While the relay I recommended is readily available in 30 and
40 amp ratings, the relay socket I advised is not so available.
It appears that the electronic stores only have P.C. board mount types, and the
auto stores assume you've got one on the vehicle. The relays, however, have
mounting tabs on them already, and 1/4 inch female spade connectors can take car
of the wire terminations.
While you may be correct on the "typical system" runs on the hot line and
controls the ground end, this was not my recommendation. I
recommended that the heavy current circuit (fused on the hot end) goes through
the control relay and grounds locally. The relay remote
control coil wiring could work either way, but is a low current device bearing
only the relay energizing low amperage.
As to your questions:
I specifically chose to evaluate the flat motor design, as the entire assembly
is thin enough to allow insertion through the grill (center bar
removed, by a tilt-back of the radiator. They may be larger in diameter, but it
is their thin profile that makes them practical The larger motors are larger
everywhere, as well as heavier. As to performance, the curved blade model
examined had a complete outer ring connecting the
blades, making the entire assembly a good deal stiffer, and preventing the
blades from individually vibrating, as well as having superior
control of the vortex at the blade tips. This, combined with a close fitting
complete shroud, looked a lot better structurally. As for
performance, the air flow capacity and current requirements were very good for
their size, and the only straight models I saw weren't
advertised as available in sizes to fit the car. The one built for the 5.0
liter Mustang was meant to be a puller, only, and replace the original
fan entirely. I was looking for auxiliary cooling for traffic conditions, not a
replacement of the fan assembly.
I did not do an exhaustive survey of everything that could be obtained, only
what was offered by a large supplier with multiple vendors. I
think the point of the message was that two fans, one being 30% more than
another, were actually the same fan. Both have been
successfully installed on Tigers for the application specified.
--
Steve Laifman < One first kiss, >
B9472289 < one first love, and >
< one first win, is all >
< you get in this life. >
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