I have used the long bolt method of removing the front springs from my
Midget twice and it works just fine. Because of the restricted space, I
found that it was better to have the bolt head down (below the spring pan),
and the nut on top. That way, you can hold the nut with a wrench, and get
a socket on the bolt head. It helps if you use a washer under the nut and
the bolt head, too. I also like to restrain the spring with something like
a chain when I do this, just to be sure it doesn't get loose.
I thought Midgets were low enough already.
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC USA
'73 Midget GAN5UD126009G "OO NINE"
"It is better to remain silent, and be thought a fool
than to speak, and remove all doubt" -- Mark Twain
----------
> From: Philip Hubbard <phubbard@carroll.com>
> To: spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: Suspension Bushings
> Date: Friday, May 29, 1998 8:30 PM
>
> Ok, so now we all know I have to replace bushings in front and rear
> suspension. I was going to buy the polyeurythane upgrades to the regular
> rubber ones, but maybe I should wait. I may be buying different springs
> front and back to lower the supspension a bit for better handling. If I
do
> that within 6 months to a year will I have to replace the rubber parts?
Is
> this lowering worth it in the list's opinion?
>
> And lastly a question on removing the front coils. I planned on using
the
> Hayne's manual's method of long bolts and nuts. Then I saw a tool in the
> VB catalog for compressing the springs. Anyone used it? Is using the
bolt
> method really all that much more difficult?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Philip
> Burgundy 1974 Midget
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