Dave,
Well, the process is quite simple and I'm not sure I can explain it as
well as Haynes, but I'll try.
- remove the entire automatic choke assy from the carburator
2 coolant hoses
3 screws
- remove the center bolt from heat sensing chamber (couldn't figure out
why)
- remove the heat sensing chamber and heat shield (black plastic piece)
3 screws
- inside the main choke linkage housing, inspect the cam and 2 pistons
for breakage or gunk
I also cleaned everything and put some grease in there
- with a new gasket, mount the main choke linkage back onto the carb
- set the gap between the cam and pin to .500mm by adjusting the fine
idle adjuster and/or fast idle screw
- make sure the pin is not holding the cam at this point
- place the heat shield onto the main choke housing, positioning it
carefully - making sure the tab protruding from the main choke inserts
into the square notch on the bimetallic spring.
test by turning the heat shield slightly to tighten the spring, it
should recover or you should feel some force moving it back to position
- replace the heat sending chamber onto the heat shield, leaving the 3
screws slack
- align the notch on top of the heat shield with the notch on the main
choke assy
- tighten the center bolt
- replace the coolant hoses
You can now start the engine and adjust the fast idle by turning the
heat sending chamber and heat shield.
When you're satisfied, tighten the 3 screws on the sensing chamber/heat
shield.
Check out the Haynes on this, it's more concise.
Hope it helps,
Vic
> I too wonder what the tricks are with the water heated choke, mine is a
>1980, and i am convenced it was a failed auto choke that cooked my cat,
>manifold, and EGR from the prior owner.
> When should it kick out, how is it checked, any tricks????
>
> I'm ready to pull my new cat just to protect it if the choke fails again.
>It was a very expensive failure
>
> thanks dave
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