Don't wast you money on a recon crank, when the machine shop will grind it
for you. Get them to supply the pistons, thrust washers, bearings, bigends,
and get them to check your little ends. To be honest it may appere slightly
more expensive to get them through the machine shop, but you'll get better
components and you'll have a better job done.
One of the things I regret is not getting the block waterways sorted out,
ask the machine shop what they can do about it.
Scrub your block and everything with parraffin
Get all the machine work done.
The re-scrub with parraffin, folowed by hot water and soap powder, dryed
then after that use parrafin or light oil.
Strip everything, use pipe cleaners to get the gunk out of the oil gallery.
Get from John Kippling, his 3-1 borg and beck clutch kit, plus pin
tollerance ring and belhousing bushes. Get a timing chain from him, and if
it comes to a new camshaft, get a new one, not a recon they don't last 500
miles. New tappets if nessecery. New front and rear oil seals, and a
decoke and conversion gasket set. Get a Spitfire 1500 oil pump from John
Kipling and ask his advice on what is best. Listen to him, he knows best
and will save you money.
You can take the cylinder head off easly to work on and get converted to
unleaded at anytime, so if moneys tight save it here.
Get Mini Cylinder head boltsfrom the scrapyard, as these are better than the
Spitfire ones.
This advice is from bitter experience having done two rebuilds one after
another. It's worth 300 pound to get the bottom end sorted. You could
bodge it for 170.
New pistons are running at 120 pounds, and the bore will cost 30, regrind
about the same.
I regret not having the flywheel crank and pully ballanced.
It took me 2 weaks including machine times to do the job, while I was
working, mabe had a couple of days off work.
I got the maching done at FJ Paynes in Oxford.
James
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