>
> I had posted the question, "what is dipping in relation to stripping the
> paint and rust from a car's body
> and frame; and how does it work." No one replied so I did a little
research
> and calling around as well
> as searching the web.
>
> I found a contact in Lebanon, Ohio who knew. Randy Balogh of "Strictly
> British: restoration and service"
> put me in touch with a company north of Cincinnati, Ohio which does auto
> parts dipping.
>
> The process uses a caustic solution that removes all finishes and rust.
You
> must have everything removed
> that can be. No aluminum commission number plates, no loose bolts, no
> rubber. The process for large parts
> like a Spit body tub or chassis won't remove plastic fillers like
"Bondo".
> The process for smaller parts, like doors
> trunk lids does remove plastic fillers because it puts them through an
oven
> too.
>
> After the dipping process, the part is thoroughly rinsed with copious
> amounts of water and sprayed with a thin clear
> zinc temporary protective coat. This is only meant to keep the shiny
bare
> steel from developing surface rust before
> you can get a coat of primer on it. It is best to paint the bare metal
> within a month or two, but if stored in a dry
> area it could last much longer.
>
> When done the metal will be as bright and shiny as it was when new,
unless
> there was rust. The process eats away
> all paint and rust. If there was surface rust, the bare metal will be
> pitted and need to be filled prior to painting. Before
> painting or priming, the protective zinc coating needs to be rinsed off.
>
> Prior to removing the Spitfire body tub, it was recommended to cross
brace
> the top of the cockpit opening by welding
> braces diagonally from the firewall to the top of the rear door arch
> bilaterally, and near the rocker panel between the
> front and rear door pillars, just in case the rocker panels reveal hidden
> rust after the process and cause the body tub to
> warp.
>
Didn't reply earlier because I'm no expert but...check out Redi-Strip
franchises if you have one nearby. Also, most people who have been through
this process with fenders that bolt outer to inner fenders (wings) suggest
that you remove the outer fender. Apparently the caustic solution is not
always 100% removed from between the two mating surfaces and of course this
eats through the paint after the body work, surface prep, and painting are
done.
Cheers
Keith
_ _
| \ / | Keith R. Stewart
| \ / | 75 Camden Road
| \_/ | London, Ontario
| 62 | TR4| N5X 2K2
| 67 |TR4A| Canada
| 70 |Spit| Home: (519)660-1916
__| |Mk3 |__ E-Mail: kstewart@wwdc.com
| | | | |
\T \___|___/ H/
\ R I U M P /
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