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[Shop-talk] Tile backer board on concrete floor

Subject: [Shop-talk] Tile backer board on concrete floor
From: bjshov8 at tx.rr.com (BJNoSHOV8)
Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 23:11:06 -0500
References: <000001cc95cf$5956c750$0c0455f0$@ameritech.net> <CAO8Q7CO_xJO_eC7xuD_KBrU33uvOxTxTVuBoEEvtGdkr=yQv+Q@mail.gmail.com>
The green board is moisture-resistant sheetrock.  The cement backer 
boards are usually a gray color (from the cement).  You don't want the 
green stuff for a floor application.  I would pick the thickest cement 
board I could get that seemed reasonably solid.

The screws are called "tapcon", at least that is what one manufacturer 
calls them.  A lot of different manufacturers make them now and have 
their own names for them.

I second the use of thin set to fill the gaps, even if it might not bond 
to the original vinyl floor.  I don't think bonding is essential if it 
is attached where it can't move around, and if it is thick enough.  For 
instance many tile showers have a lining of a PVC sheet, with concrete, 
thinset and tile applied over that, and it is solid enough and works 
fine.  The layer on top of the PVC sheet is thick enough to maintain its 
own integrity.  However some thinset has latex in it and might be able 
to bond to the vinyl flooring somewhat.

I've used the "cake frosting" material in the past and that stuff 
eventually did get really hard.




> On Fri, Oct 28, 2011 at 8:11 PM, Karl Vacek<kvacek at ameritech.net>  wrote:
>> Any advice will be appreciated.
> Not advice, per se, but thoughts...
>
> I'd use a hard backerboard, and I'd put the thinset down.  Your goal
> should be to make a surface that doesn't flex; so you need the
> gap-filling of the thinset to make sure there aren't any voids under
> the board.  If it's a slab in contact with the ground, I'd use the
> moisture-proof board (I think it's green around here).  A stout board
> will make up the height easily and flex less.
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
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