I think you will have trouble drilling a pipe-sized hole through a 4X4
unless you have a mega drill press or a mortiser. If you want quick,
sturdy and cheap, use pressure treated deck boards (6" x 5/4") and a
hole saw to drill the pipe locations for your vertical pieces. Then use
four deck boards (two long, two short) and hole saw each near the end
for cross braces. Slide on a long and short cross brace as shown below.
Then slide on your verticals. A few deck screws at each intersection
will hold them in place. Now slide on the other two cross braces on the
outside but sloping the opposite direction and add more deck screws at
the intersections. You will have 3 inches of sandwich at the bottom of
each vertical, and the rest will not be tilting anywhere and will become
quite stiff.
If I understand your ASCII CAD, your end view of the rack currently
looks like this. BL=block
o---o---o
Bl Bl
My ASCII CAD end view below:
\ | |
|\ | |
| \ | |
| \| |
\ \ |
|\ |\ |
| \ | \ |
| \| \|
o---o---o
| |\ |
old dirtbeard wrote:
> I had not thought about this approach. What do you think, probably
> should use 4x4 so that there would be enough "interference fit" on the
> pipe to keep the post from "cocking" on the pipe?
>
> I probably would need to put a cross brace between them to keep them
> from rotating on the pipe.
>
> This might be the easiest/cheapest way to do it. Thank you for the advice!
>
> best,
>
> doug
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rush" <jdrush@enter.net>
> To: "old dirtbeard" <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
> Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 12:45 PM
> Subject: Re: Pipe size conundrum and turning a fence into a log rack
>
>
>> old dirtbeard wrote:
>>
>>> Q3. Does anybody in the group have a better idea for creating
>>> "end-stops" for
>>> the rack?
>>
>>
>> Pressure Treated wood with a pipe-sized hole drilled in it?
>>
>> Jon
|