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Re: Chain link fence

To: "Wayne Farrington" <w.farrington@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Chain link fence
From: nick brearley <nick@landform.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 08:41:58 +0100
At 15:13 27/05/03 -0700, you wrote:

>I am fixing to get ready to start thinking about maybe putting a chain link
>fence around the backside of my shop. I have put in plenty of board fences
>before and am familiar with the method of holding the 4x4 plumb while the
>concrete sets up. Using two 2x4's at a 90 deg angle. Then once the concrete is
>solid we would run a string to set the post height and cut off the post top to
>string level. Actually we would run the string before hand and set the post
>roughly to a designated mark on the post.
>
>How is this done with a metal chain link fence post? How do you hold the post
>plumb while the concrete cures? Maybe use a muffler clamp around the pipe and
>bolted into a 2x4? How do you set the post height with the metal posts. Leave
>them tall and then cut them off like you would do with a wood post? I have
>portable band saw that would probably work good for that task.

Wayne,

Unless conditions are very windy or the posts are likely to get knocked 
there shouldn't be any need to brace the posts. The key is using concrete 
that is fairly dry. In the UK we use around 25mm (one inch) slump concrete 
for this application. Tamp it around the posts well and they won't go 
anywhere. That works for 9 foot tennis court fencing so it should be ok for 
domestic. For panels of railings we use support braces made from a 1200mm 
length of 40x10mm flat bar with a pivoted angle spike at one end and a 
simple clamp at the other but that would be overkill for your project.

Heightwise you're better to get it right first time. The posts should be 
predrilled to take linewires so fixing them out of line will mess up the 
wires once you start cutting them to height post erection. Set up the ends 
and corners first then string a line between fixed to the winder holes. 
Work to that and you've got line and level taken care of, although many 
perfectly good fences have been put up by just sighting over the top of the 
posts. You could always set the height by rotating laser if you felt really 
pernicketty... Some posts have baseplates welded on, otherwise put a brick 
or flat stone for the post to bed on to remove the possibility of it 
sinking into the concrete.

Going back to those linewires I seem to remember seeing chainlink fencing 
put up with round posts and toprails in the US so you may not use wires. 
Anyway fixing them right first time still holds good.

HTH,

Good luck,

Nick Brearley

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