[Top] [All Lists]

RE: Not the floor paint thread again...

To: "''" <>
Subject: RE: Not the floor paint thread again...
From: Gil Fuqua <>
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1999 12:56:56 -0500
I used the Griggs two-part, water-based epoxy paint and have had excellent
results.  It's been over a year and nothing seems to phase it.  I put down
two coats over an acid etched new concrete floor.  After etching, be sure to
thoroughly wash the floor.  It took several washes with a power washer to
get the grit loose.

I followed Griggs advice and added a top coat of their urethane (about $90
gallon).  They said the urethane top coat was used in buildings with a lot
of traffic (like municipal auditoriums).  It adds extra protection.  I also
used the urethane to paint my metal benches and it also worked great.

The overall coating is tough and seems to be impervious to gas, oil, lacquer
thinner and beer. 

Gil Fuqua, Jr.
523 Third Ave. S.
Nashville, TN  37210


No interest in Griggs other than a happy customer.

-----Original Message-----
From: Fred Zampa []
Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 1999 12:33 PM
To: Keith Kaplan (Exchange)
Subject: Re: Not the floor paint thread again...

  i have been meaning to convey my floor painting experience. now seems as
good a time as ever.   on advice from listers, i avoided behr one part
epoxy and bought griggs two part , water based epoxy at $30 / gal.  this
gets thinned over 100%
and so is a pretty good value.  i chose white and am glad i did.
  since my floor is new, the purpose of acid treatment is to
promote adesion ("tooth"). this can also be done by sandblasting or by
using a floor sander. since acid is not 
pleasant , i used a floor sander- which also leveled things  
out a bit. 
   i super thinned  the first coat of paint  (as per the instructions)  to
allow penetration into the concrete.  i suspect that this was the problem
with the  behr paint which is so thick it tends to sit on the surface.
behr's instructions call for no thinning.

so far, so good.

    fred zampa

At 05:47 PM 7/19/99 -0700, you wrote:
>So the conventional wisdom is that 2 part epoxy is the way to go, and acid
>prepping the surface is also a requirement.  Great.  
>Can one of the resident chemists tell me if these paints rely on their
>adhesion to the concrete or their cohesion to the rest of the paint layer
>for strength?
>Specifically, what if I only want to paint half my garage floor at a time?
>This would mean I'd etch up to some point (surely it eats through masking
>tape, any suggestions on building an acid-proof dam?), then paint up to
>point.  Is the paint going to peel up at the edge I leave?  It may be years
>before I get motivated enough to paint the other half, so I'd hate to have
>the half I do now look terrible for the next few years.  What about the
>right around my lift columns where I don't want to pour acid and destroy my
>wondering what that orange thing is in the Seattle sky today

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>