Nils O. Ny wrote:
>
> At 06:34 PM 4/30/98 -0500, Susan and John Roper wrote:
> >> I think you are missing the point here ! Studs used in
> >> engine blocks were not intended to be put in with Loc-Tite
> >> or similar products. There is no problem removing studs
> >> that are not broken (Everyone can do that !) There is no
> >> way to double nut or use a stud puller to remove the half
> >> that's left in the block. If you use just plain oil or a little
> >> anti-seize I have been able to remove the piece without
> >> too much trouble. I invite you to try it after you have
> >> used Loc-Tite on it ! It ain't any fun at all !
> >>
> >> Regards, Nils
> >Again, I beg to differ. The issue under discussion was the use of
> >thread locker in installing replacement studs, after the broken stud had
> >been removed. The representation was made that loctite would prohibit
> >subsequent disassembly. It will not. further, the purpose of using a
> >stud rather than a bolt that would be removed fron the casting from time
> >to time is that the threads in the casting are not suitable for multiple
> >dissassemblies. I have yet to see a fastener secured by loctite that is
> >sufficiently corroded to shear, not even close. A stud in a casting is
> >properly installed by threading it in little more than finger tight,
> >secured with loctite. Lets not malign fine products if we don't
> >understand their application. John
> >
> Hey John, you don't have to beg! It's a free country, you can differ all
> you like. If you read my comment you will see that I did not malign
> Loc-Tite. In fact I think it is a wonderful product when used
> appropriately. I agree with you about corrosion, I also have never seen a
> stud that broke due to corrosion. But that's not what breaks them ... it's
> metal fatigue due to heat cycling over long periods that seems to do them
> in. I've been faced with removing a lot of them over the years (especially
> the end ones on exhaust manifolds on Japanese six cylinder cars) Broken
> studs are a fact of life and one of the most frustrating of all things to
> deal with (especially if trying to remove them while engine is still in the
> car)... but you have to make the best of it.
>
> My only point is that there is no need to use it in this application,
> especially when it makes the removal of such a stud more difficult (notice,
> I did not say that it can't be done) than if you did not use it. Why use
> anything other than oil or anti seize when its totally unnecessary ? After
> all, in most applications that I am aware of it was not used in the
> original installation and in my 30 plus years of experience I have yet to
> have very many studs fall out because they were not glued in ... but I have
> had plenty of broken ones to contend with (and when I am faced with
> removing one, I want it to be as easy as possible)!
>
> Regards, Nils
Nils, I don't mean to be testy, and perhaps we don't disagree. My
experience, and I have been aroung a long time, is that studs break not
because of fatigue, but becaues of poor metallurgy(Italian stuff), from
overtightening which stretches and reduces diameter, and because of nuts
that seize on the stud by corrosion. If you do not secure the stud in
the casting, then you will more often than not withdraw the stud rather
than removing the nut, which in certain applications can be a problem.
Thus I prefer to secure the stud, which loctite does well. That will
not solve the problem of corrosion outside the casting, but will provide
a stud that is both secure and removable. That is my preference. To
each his own. John
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