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Re: penetrant

To: Martin Libhart <>
Subject: Re: penetrant
From: (John Herndon)
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 04:46:07 GMT
Another idea...

The best way I've found to losen rusty nuts.

I heat the nuts with my propane torch.  Try to heat the nut and not
the bolt.  Get it hot but not red hot.  Only takes a few seconds.  If
on the first try the nut does not come lose try heating the nut a
little more until it loosens.  The nut expands from the heat breaking
the rust and scale.    After loosening the nut a turn or two while hot
then a little penetrant to lube never hurts.  The nut comes off
easily.  Works great on old rusty (years of rust)  wagon stove bolts
to exhaust pipe clamp bolts. =20

Just have to be a little careful with the open flame and the hot nut
and bolt. =20

John Herndon

On Mon, 19 Jan 1998 16:38:28 -0600, you wrote:

>For what it's worth...
>After trying several different products (Liquid Wrench, etc.etc.) over
>the last 2 weeks to free up some badly frozen brake bleeder fittings, as
>well as 2 clamp bolts on an exhaust pipe, I finally gave in and spent
>twice the $ for a spray can of "Blaster". Available at PepBoys and other
>parts outlets.
>I'm the first to be skeptical about any of these products that make
>their fantastic claims, but this product works!  It is totally different
>than most of the 'solvent-type' products - it actually looks like orange
>colored milk out of the nozzle, and foams upon contact with the bolt or
>part.  I soaked each fitting and bolt 4 times over the last 24 hours,
>went out today to check them with a wrench, and "bingo"!
>All standard disclaimers apply - just a product that I found to work and
>would recommend highly.
>Martin Libhart
>1972 TR6
>1970 Spitfire

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