The best way I've found to losen rusty nuts.
I heat the nuts with my propane torch. Try to heat the nut and not
the bolt. Get it hot but not red hot. Only takes a few seconds. If
on the first try the nut does not come lose try heating the nut a
little more until it loosens. The nut expands from the heat breaking
the rust and scale. After loosening the nut a turn or two while hot
then a little penetrant to lube never hurts. The nut comes off
easily. Works great on old rusty (years of rust) wagon stove bolts
to exhaust pipe clamp bolts. =20
Just have to be a little careful with the open flame and the hot nut
and bolt. =20
On Mon, 19 Jan 1998 16:38:28 -0600, you wrote:
>For what it's worth...
>After trying several different products (Liquid Wrench, etc.etc.) over
>the last 2 weeks to free up some badly frozen brake bleeder fittings, as
>well as 2 clamp bolts on an exhaust pipe, I finally gave in and spent
>twice the $ for a spray can of "Blaster". Available at PepBoys and other
>I'm the first to be skeptical about any of these products that make
>their fantastic claims, but this product works! It is totally different
>than most of the 'solvent-type' products - it actually looks like orange
>colored milk out of the nozzle, and foams upon contact with the bolt or
>part. I soaked each fitting and bolt 4 times over the last 24 hours,
>went out today to check them with a wrench, and "bingo"!
>All standard disclaimers apply - just a product that I found to work and
>would recommend highly.