JLP,
The only portion of your question I feel qualified to answer is the
etching, #2. The etching is done to clean as well as open up the pores
in the concrete. New "clean" concrete needs either etching or mechanical
preparation. You could a concrete grinder. It looks like the floor
waxers the maintenance people use to wax industrial floors, except it is
fitted with abrasive or diamond stones. Diamond stones cut better,
especially on fairly smooth concrete. The rental cost will probably be
less than the etching materials. After mechanical prep, vacuum with a
shop vac well, to guarantee the best paint adhesion.
Alternatively, just for grins, the best way to mechanically prep concrete
is a portable concrete bead blaster. They are very expensive to rent,
but Tim Allen would be so proud.
Jack Brooks
Hillsdale, New Jersey
1960 TR3-A TS69032L
1974 Norton Commando Roadster
On Mon, 02 Dec 1996 07:37:44 -0800 "Jack L. Poller"
<poller@chromatic.com> writes:
>I've perused my personal archives about painting a shop floor, and
>have the following questions.
>
>1) I'll be painting a brand new concrete pour. How long do I have
>to wait for the concrete to set before painting? If the contractor
>says the concrete has cured enough to drive on, can I paint it?
>
>2) Since it will be brand new, do I still have to etch it with
>muratic acid? I'll ensure that nobody drives on it before painting.
>
>3) I'll have about 2 slabs at 20' x 20' each. How much paint will
>I need? How much will it cost?
>
>4) How long will it take for the paint to dry?
>
>5) Can I paint in cool/wet weather, or will I need to heat
>the area. I'll be doing this in the last week of January,
>in the SF Bay Area, and it will probably be in the 60's (f)
>ambient temp.
>
>Thanks
>
>JLP
>
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