mgb-v8
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RE: ....and now ..stop

To: "'Paul Hunt'" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>, "'Barrie Robinson'" <barrie@look.ca>, <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: ....and now ..stop
From: "Richard Morris" <richard.morris@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 07:50:35 -0600
Delivered-to: mgb-v8-kjRt@team.net
Delivered-to: mgb-v8@autox.team.net
In-reply-to: <014b01c712d8$2513f7d0$0200a8c0@Three>
Organization: Richard Morris
Reply-to: "Richard Morris" <richard.morris@cox.net>
Sender: owner-mgb-v8@Autox.Team.Net
PaulH and others

I have attached a Mallory pdf file that goes over the need of a ballast
resistor. Paul, you are simply wrong. You need a ballast resistor. This
document tells why. It also shows the typical wiring of a number of systems.
Leaving it off is going to burn up the ignition module or in the breaker
type system, it will burn up the coil.

As I responded directly to Barrie once before, he is aware that he needs it.


Please read and educate yourself on this subject. The late model B's had a
ballast resistor (in my 80LE, it was actually a resistor wire that looped up
in the front by the headlights) as well as the metal resistor thing I took
off. I used a standard resistor (1.6 ohms I think) when I decided to use a
Mallory dual point distributor.

Richard Morris


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mgb-v8@Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-mgb-v8@Autox.Team.Net] On
Behalf Of Paul Hunt
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 4:19 AM
To: Barrie Robinson; mgb-v8@autox.team.net; mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: ....and now ..stop


Firstly forget a 'ballasted 12v coil'!  A coil is either a 12v coil or a 6v
coil.  Whether the 12v coil is actually a 6v coil that also contains an
*internal* ballast resistance is immaterial, it is still a 12v coil to be
treated exactly the same as a 12v coil that only contains wire windings.

Do you have an external ballast resistance?  If so you need a 6v coil.  If
not you need a 12v coil.  Whilst using a 6v coil without external ballast
should not be used for more than a couple of minutes it wouldn't hurt just
to eliminate the existing coil as the source of the non-running, or prove
that it is the problem.  However that would be with points, I'd be wary of
doing that with any electronic trigger.  Electronic systems can either be
used with the standard coil setup, which could be either 12v coil and no
external ballast *or* 6v coil with external ballast, or they may come with
their own coil, either mandatory or optional, which again could be a 12v
item with no external ballast or a 6v item with external ballast, or indeed
a very low resistance coil with no external ballast.  It all depends on the
way the electronic system works.  Most electronic systems where a
replacement coil isn't a mandatory part of the installation will work with
either of the OE coil arrangements, the only proviso being that on rubber
bumper cars i.e. those with a 6v coil and external ballast, it is usual to
pickup a 12v supply for the electronics from a white wire at the fusebox,
and not from the white/light-green at the coil +ve.

A 12v coil *with external* ballast would probably never be used anywhere,
anytime (except with 24v electrics ...)

But the first test in a non-starter should always be to clip a timing light
onto the coil lead and each plug lead and watch for flashes while you crank.

No flashes, then it is ignition.  Flashes, then something else like fuel,
especially if it tries to go but won't fully catch.

PaulH.



----- Original Message -----

> .. suspect maybe the unmarked coil that I used maybe dead.  If I
> fitted a
> 6V coil without ballast - would it get toasted?  If I have a Lumenition
> set up do I need a ballasted 12V coil, or a ballasted 6V coil,  or a 12V
> or a 6V.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of 
mallory distributor maa-unilitedist.pdf]

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