I put a proper (read "unmodified") CB crossmember in last year. With the AC
style (1" set back) engine mounts, the rack nestles in behind the balancer.
It is possible that it wouldn't have fit with the standard mounts. The
issue is indeed the steering shaft. If you retain the '78 column, you will
either need to shorten the late model shaft or lengthen the CB shaft. I
chose to go with the CB rack and lengthen the shaft for the faster steering
response. It takes a bit more muscle to get around at slow speeds but that
is further compounded by the 225 section tires I've got.
Overall I would say this is the best way to get the car down without going
to an exotic or custom suspension. The shaft location issues for me were at
the universal joint. A late model join is absolutely necessary, and even at
that, it is really close.
Tim Duhamel
>After reading Jim's reply, I'm inclined to not lower the car right now and
just get the car on the road first.
Kevin, you don't get any better information that what Paul H and Jim S can
provide.
Do it now or do it later? I suggest you do it now. I think the difference
between the rubber bumper and the chrome bumper cross
member is basically a spacer that sits on top of the cross member and
increases the distance between the cross member and the body.
Of course this raises the height of the car. Sooooo ... if you use the
rubber bumper cross member then subsequently change to the
chrome bumper cross member there is the possibility that the
steering/steering shaft will hit the engine. I guess that if you
anticipate this issue you can make the appropriate adjustments. But be
forewarned the location of the steering rack and its
relationship to the engine were the most critical clearances I had to deal
with; well that and the steering shaft.
Anyone else familiar with this?
Larry Hoy
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