Tommm,
Of course - drain pipes carry no pressure. What was I thinking? I put it down
to OFS and being concerned by Mike Allison's admonition to be sure to anneal
them. Thank you for setting me straight - I shall polish and install and not
worry any more!
The PA I had in 1960 had a green engine, as did two of my friends' PAs. Mine
certainly had never been rebuilt (I had to remove No. 4 spark plug and crank
the engine to pump out the water that had accumulated on the piston if I let it
sit more than a week!) and one of the other two was a very low mileage,
immaculate car. I doubt we'll ever know for sure, eh?
Thanks again,
Lawrie
> -------Original Message-------
> From: Tom Metcalf <mgtom@zoominternet.net>
> Subject: Re: Annealing copper
> Sent: 25 Aug '06 05:58
>
> Lawie,
>
> Remember, these lines are oil DRAIN lines, except the smaller diameter line
> that feeds the head. If a crack were to appear in these drain lines, you'd
> notice more oil spots on your garage floor than normal - the oil would seep
> out gradually rather than pour out causing a catastrophic melt down.
>
> Further, these drain lines are rigidly attached to the block and head.
> There's virtually no room for vibration or movement which could cause
> fractures. The external oil lines on a TC XPAG engine from pump to filter
> and filter to block, are pressurized oil feed lines and are in an area where
> flexing IS possible - different story there.
>
> IMHO, I see no reason to anneal them, and what can polishing do to cause any
> failure?
>
> To repeat, the oil feed line at the front of the engine is the only one
> pressurized. Even so, it's very solid, doesn't vibrate, and is even attached
> in the middle for more stabilization. Check this one carefully.
>
> I agree with Bob that the silver solder or braze that was originally used on
> these pipes is VERY strong stuff. Seems like it's a higher melting point
> than the brass fittings! But the silver solder used today is plenty strong
> enough - just don't ever be tempted to use soft solder.
>
> The green paint MAY have been the common BMC rebuild paint from the 50's.
>
> That's my take on it. tommm
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Britcars.com" <Lawrie@britcars.com>
> To: "Lew Palmer" <lpalmer@roundaboutmanor.com>; "'J.E.A. Rich'"
> <mmmbob@adelphia.net>
> Cc: <mg-mmm@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 11:32 PM
> Subject: Re: Annealing copper
>
>
> > Thanks for explaining the "colored smoke" that I saw, Lew (and thank you,
> > Bob, for your reply to my note).
> >
> > One point that neither of you addressed (if I may be so bold as to
> > criticize!) is whether, in fact, I really need to anneal my external
> > pipes. How likely are they to crack if I don't do anything to them? Will
> > polishing them by hand really aggravate the problem and make them subject
> > to failure? Part of me would like to ignore Mike Allison's warning (after
> > all, he is adamant that PA engines should be red, not green!) but another
> > part of me is worried that I could suffer a major engine let-down if I use
> > the pipes as they are and then have one break while I'm out driving ...
> >
> > TIA,
> >
> > Lawrie
> > ----- Original Message -----
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