Terry,
Never having worked on an N-type, I can't comment directly. However, on
the J2, there are 3 clutch fingers which contact the throwout bearing.
>From past experience (having done it wrong) I can tell you that it is
absolutely imperative that the clutch fingers contact the throwout
bearing at absolutely the same time, and they withdraw away from the
bearing at the same distance. If this is not the case, the fingers will
wear at an alarming rate.
Now hopefully, the N-type design was better than the J2, but just in
case, you have been warned.
Regards,
Lew
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mg-mmm@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mg-mmm@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of TATERRY@aol.com
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002 6:40 PM
To: mg-mmm@autox.team.net
Cc: MMMGservice@aol.com
Subject: P,K,N clutch pressure plate
Gents, Last night I commenced on the clutch. Weird design but seems
fairly
straight forward. I've got two of the pressure plates here. I seems to
be
the thicker version and one the thinner.
One only 4 springs in it, the other has 11 of the 12 possible. I
presume one
broke and fell out, must have made a hell of a noise as it got ground
up!
Is it normal to find fewer springs? Should I go back to 12 springs?
I see the admonitions in BW catalog about thick and thin, my clutch
driven
plate has no cork inserts so I presume the driven plate that I do have
(relined by Mike Allison) will work with the thicker pressure plate.
The
driven plate is .290. Can anyone confirm that I've got the right combo
here?
I'd appreciate anyother tips when it comes to rebuilding/adjusting the
clutch.
Thanks
terry
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