Hello Dave, and others,
Oil-pipes:
Annealing of old oil-pipes also has another advantage.
When You really have a thick oil-mud deposit inside, this gets hard and
brittle by annealing, and it easy falls out after quenching in water.
Sump-studs:
When You buy a new set of sump-studs, it mostly takes so much work to bring
them to the exact lenth for Your individual block-sump compo, that You also
can buy a 1/4 inch steel-rod, and make them. Nearly each will need a
different lenth !
Cracks in block near the water-jacket-plates:
It really is rare, that someone find a old block without a frost damage. The
reason, as You know, mostly is a rust-blocked water-tap at the rear-end of
the block, which once gave the wrong appearance, that there is no more water
left in the block.
If it only is a hair-crack, reachable with the fingers through the
water-jacket hole, I cleaned the area inside the block as far as possible,
fabricated a stainless-steelplate of the shape needed, and pulled that with
4 or 6 3/16 bolts from inside to the cracked area, so that the
silicone-sealant which I put on the plate before, was pressed against the
crack.
The countersunk heads of the bolts on the outside are hardly visible under
the new paint.
Cracked areas which You cant reach through the water-jacket holes, get a
similar plate from outside, but need much patience to make them nearly
invisible.
Welding is only successful, when the whole block is heated up, and often You
have new cracks aside the weld.
Gerhard Maier (Germany)
-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: owner-mg-mmm@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mg-mmm@autox.team.net]Im
Auftrag von Dave & Diana Dwyer
Gesendet: Dienstag, 25. Dezember 2001 05:42
An: mg-mmm@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: Oil pipes and sump studs
Terry
Yes the pipes do fracture.
When I was annealing the small feeder to the head, it simply fell to pieces.
There was a hair fracture which failed completely when I heated it. Since
this is a quite crucial feed, if you have the least doubt replace the tubing
with new. Most of the others are drains so are under no pressure and are
much larger anyway. You'll need to anneal them all in any case to allow hand
bending to get the final #exact# fit to the end positions
I havn't found that the oil lines leak from the unions, but beware
deformation of the long narrow union to restrictor pin at the front of the
head. These bend like a banana over time: I straightened mine cold and
filed the face to final flat. Annealing would make the problem worse: leave
the ends alone.
All my sump studs had stretched and I made new ones. They're only mild steel
died 1/4 BSF.
In most matters of rebuilding the MMM engine I found Martin Green's book 'MG
Road Cars Volume 1' an invaluable resource.
Note: pressure test your block in every way that you can. Mine has a hair
crack outward from the water jacket that has only appeared after running the
engine: I havn't quite figured what to do yet.
Regards
Dave Dwyer
J2, TA, TC
British Cars Web: http://www.team.net/sol
MMM list subscription info: http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
British Cars Web: http://www.team.net/sol
MMM list subscription info: http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
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