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David,
Do you drill the hole in the bearing cap?
bs
On 11/4/2023 9:04 PM, David Nock via Healeys wrote:
> I have installed probably 30 of the 100/4 rear seal conversions. Â And
> as long as you follow the instructions it works fine.
> You do have to make sure that you seal the rear center oil pan bolt.
> It goes directly into the rear main drain and if you donâ??t use a
> copper washer and seal the threads it will leak. And you will blame
> the rear main seal.
>
> David Nock
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Nov 4, 2023, at 4:57 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> Michael--
>>
>> Thanks for your input and I am certainly willing to forgo the expense
>> and trouble of having a rear seal fit if there is a strong chance of
>> it not being successful.
>> Besides (being an aging male) I should probably have the grace to
>> allow my car to have an occasional drip or two.
>>
>> A couple of questions....
>>
>> Q1--As said earlier my car does not have a great amount of leakage
>> through the cotter pin in the bell housing, though I do seem to
>> remember that it leaked more after the engine was freshly rebuilt
>> about 70K miles ago. My oil pressure has also dropped about 10-15
>> psi from where it was after the rebuild. Assuming that a fresh
>> engine will have higher oil pressure will that result in higher
>> crankcase pressures which would tend to increase leakage past the
>> scroll seal?
>>
>> Q2--My car has an early aftermarket valve cover and looks like the
>> ones sold by Ray Juncal minus one fin and with a flat versus a
>> slightly convex top surface. There is no vent nipple and it has a
>> spring-loaded filler cap that probably does not make a tight seal
>> though there is no oil blow-by. Is there a real advantage to
>> installing a PCV valve and if so where should the hose terminate? I
>> removed the original LeMans kit CAB some time back and would prefer
>> not to refit it.
>>
>> Thanks--Michael Oritt
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 4:04â?¯PM Michael Salter
>> <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> I've fitted a couple of those kits and have been somewhat
>> underwhelmed.
>> Firstly you have to be VERY careful with the rear cap machining
>> alignment, definitely a case of measure twice, cut once. I would
>> strongly recommend that the cap is in place on the block for this
>> operation.
>> Secondly I was very disappointed to find that the designers
>> decided that it was just too much effort to utilize the 3 tapped
>> holes already in the block to secure the upper half of the seal
>> holder and instead required that one drill and tap 2 more holes
>> for that purpose.
>> Thirdly, and I appreciate that there is possibly no way around
>> this but, the scroll on the crankshaft has to be machined off
>> which is something that you should have your crank grinder do
>> when the crank is being machined. I did mine in my 8" lathe and
>> it's pretty scary having that huge hunk of steel spinning between
>> centers (don't forget to disable the chuck brake ... rather
>> frightening to notice the chuck winding off the spindle as you
>> power it downð??³ð??³).
>> Finally, after all that effort, there was still a small leak from
>> the rear main which I finally resolved by installing my PCV.
>> Â kit.
>>
>> https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-solution/
>>
>> In future I'm not going to bother with the seal kit and just fot
>> the PCV.
>>
>> M
>>
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David,<br>
<br>
Do you drill the hole in the bearing cap?<br>
<br>
bs<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/4/2023 9:04 PM, David Nock via
Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:D3F67092-EE26-4616-9D46-B061F8448194@sbcglobal.net">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
I have installed probably 30 of the 100/4 rear seal conversions.
 And as long as you follow the instructions it works fine.Â
<div>You do have to make sure that you seal the rear center oil
pan bolt. It goes directly into the rear main drain and if you
donâ??t use a copper washer and seal the threads it will leak. And
you will blame the rear main seal. <br>
<br>
<div dir="ltr">
<div>David Nock</div>
<div><br>
</div>
Sent from my iPhone</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
<blockquote type="cite">On Nov 4, 2023, at 4:57 PM, Michael
Oritt <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com";><michael.oritt@gmail.com></a>
wrote:<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Michael--</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Thanks
for your input and I am certainly willing to forgo the
expense and trouble of having a rear seal fit if there
is a strong chance of it not being successful.  </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Besides
(being an aging male) I should probably have the grace
to allow my car to have an occasional drip or two.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">A couple
of questions....</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Q1--As
said earlier my car does not have a great amount of
leakage through the cotter pin in the bell housing,
though I do seem to remember that it leaked more after
the engine was freshly rebuilt about 70K miles ago. My
oil pressure has also dropped about 10-15 psi from where
it was after the rebuild. Assuming that a fresh engine
will have higher oil pressure will that result in higher
crankcase pressures which would tend to increase leakage
past the scroll seal?</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Q2--My
car has an early aftermarket valve cover and looks like
the ones sold by Ray Juncal minus one fin and with a
flat versus a slightly convex top surface. There is no
vent nipple and it has a spring-loaded filler cap that
probably does not make a tight seal though there is no
oil blow-by. Is there a real advantage to installing a
PCV valve and if so where should the hose terminate? I
removed the original LeMans kit CAB some time back and
would prefer not to refit it.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Thanks--Michael
Oritt </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Â Â <br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at
4:04â?¯PM Michael Salter <<a
href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com";
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote"
style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="auto">I've fitted a couple of those kits and
have been somewhat underwhelmed.Â
<div dir="auto">Firstly you have to be VERY careful
with the rear cap machining alignment, definitely a
case of measure twice, cut once. I would strongly
recommend that the cap is in place on the block for
this operation.</div>
<div dir="auto">Secondly I was very disappointed to
find that the designers decided that it was just too
much effort to utilize the 3 tapped holes already in
the block to secure the upper half of the seal
holder and instead required that one drill and tap 2
more holes for that purpose. </div>
<div dir="auto">Thirdly, and I appreciate that there
is possibly no way around this but, the scroll on
the crankshaft has to be machined off which is
something that you should have your crank grinder do
when the crank is being machined. I did mine in my
8" lathe and it's pretty scary having that huge hunk
of steel spinning between centers (don't forget to
disable the chuck brake ... rather frightening to
notice the chuck winding off the spindle as you
power it downð??³ð??³).</div>
<div dir="auto">Finally, after all that effort, there
was still a small leak from the rear main which I
finally resolved by installing my PCV. </div>
<div dir="auto"> kit. <a
href="https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-solution/";
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-solution/</a></div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">In future I'm not going to bother with
the seal kit and just fot the PCV.</div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">M</div>
</div>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
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