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*Q--Michael I would be interested to know why you are thinking that a
rebuild is necessary at this stage. The drop in oil pressure alone would
IMHO not be reason enough. Is the engine making odd noises or burning
excessive amounts of oil? Perhaps a "ring and bearing" job would be the
best way to go.*
*A--There are no odd noises and oil consumption isn't bad, though it is
more than when the engine was fresh. I have not done a recent compression
check either static or dynamic but as said oil pressure has dropped
considerably from when the engine was fresh perhap 15-20 psi across the
board with hot idle pressure of 10-15 psi. I did replace the oil pump last
year which resulted in perhaps a 5 psi increase in pressure and as a
further experiment I also replaced the bearing shells that were accessible
by dropping the sump (lower shells to cylinders 3 and 4) but neither of the
last two resulted in a substantial increase in pressure. Naturally if the
teardown shows a lot of wear in rings and bores I'd be happy to keep things
to that. *
Q2--My car has an early aftermarket valve cover and looks like the ones
sold by Ray Juncal minus one fin and with a flat versus a slightly convex
top surface. There is no vent nipple and it has a spring-loaded filler cap
that probably does not make a tight seal though there is no oil blow-by.
Is there a real advantage to installing a PCV valve and if so where should
the hose terminate? I removed the original LeMans kit CAB some time back
and would prefer not to refit it.
*The PCV system that I've developed doesn't involve the rocker cover at all
and, by the sounds of it, your engine would be an ideal candidate. Check
the web site that I showed ... the system is virtually invisible but does
require the replacement of the manifold balance pipe.*
*A--Can you please give me the website address?*
On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 11:17=E2=80=AFPM Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail=
.com>
wrote:
> Q1--As said earlier my car does not have a great amount of leakage throug=
h
> the cotter pin in the bell housing, though I do seem to remember that it
> leaked more after the engine was freshly rebuilt about 70K miles ago. My
> oil pressure has also dropped about 10-15 psi from where it was after the
> rebuild. Assuming that a fresh engine will have higher oil pressure will
> that result in higher crankcase pressures which would tend to increase
> leakage past the scroll seal?
> *Michael I would be interested to know why you are thinking that a rebuil=
d
> is necessary at this stage. The drop in oil pressure alone would IMHO not
> be reason enough. Is the engine making odd noises or burning excessive
> amounts of oil? Perhaps a "ring and bearing" job would be the best way to
> go.*
>
> Q2--My car has an early aftermarket valve cover and looks like the ones
> sold by Ray Juncal minus one fin and with a flat versus a slightly convex
> top surface. There is no vent nipple and it has a spring-loaded filler c=
ap
> that probably does not make a tight seal though there is no oil blow-by.
> Is there a real advantage to installing a PCV valve and if so where shoul=
d
> the hose terminate? I removed the original LeMans kit CAB some time back
> and would prefer not to refit it.
> *The PCV system that I've developed doesn't involve the rocker cover at
> all and, by the sounds of it, your engine would be an ideal candidate.
> Check the web site that I showed ... the system is virtually invisible b=
ut
> does require the replacement of the manifold balance pipe.*
>
> M
>
> On Sat., Nov. 4, 2023, 6:06 p.m. Michael Oritt, <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Michael--
>>
>> Thanks for your input and I am certainly willing to forgo the expense an=
d
>> trouble of having a rear seal fit if there is a strong chance of it not
>> being successful.
>> Besides (being an aging male) I should probably have the grace to allow
>> my car to have an occasional drip or two.
>>
>> A couple of questions....
>>
>> Q1--As said earlier my car does not have a great amount of leakage
>> through the cotter pin in the bell housing, though I do seem to remember
>> that it leaked more after the engine was freshly rebuilt about 70K miles
>> ago. My oil pressure has also dropped about 10-15 psi from where it was
>> after the rebuild. Assuming that a fresh engine will have higher oil
>> pressure will that result in higher crankcase pressures which would tend=
to
>> increase leakage past the scroll seal?
>>
>> Q2--My car has an early aftermarket valve cover and looks like the ones
>> sold by Ray Juncal minus one fin and with a flat versus a slightly conve=
x
>> top surface. There is no vent nipple and it has a spring-loaded filler =
cap
>> that probably does not make a tight seal though there is no oil blow-by.
>> Is there a real advantage to installing a PCV valve and if so where shou=
ld
>> the hose terminate? I removed the original LeMans kit CAB some time bac=
k
>> and would prefer not to refit it.
>>
>> Thanks--Michael Oritt
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 4:04=E2=80=AFPM Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gma=
il.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I've fitted a couple of those kits and have been somewhat underwhelmed.
>>> Firstly you have to be VERY careful with the rear cap machining
>>> alignment, definitely a case of measure twice, cut once. I would stron=
gly
>>> recommend that the cap is in place on the block for this operation.
>>> Secondly I was very disappointed to find that the designers decided tha=
t
>>> it was just too much effort to utilize the 3 tapped holes already in th=
e
>>> block to secure the upper half of the seal holder and instead required =
that
>>> one drill and tap 2 more holes for that purpose.
>>> Thirdly, and I appreciate that there is possibly no way around this but=
,
>>> the scroll on the crankshaft has to be machined off which is something =
that
>>> you should have your crank grinder do when the crank is being machined.=
I
>>> did mine in my 8" lathe and it's pretty scary having that huge hunk of
>>> steel spinning between centers (don't forget to disable the chuck brake=
...
>>> rather frightening to notice the chuck winding off the spindle as you p=
ower
>>> it down=F0=9F=98=B3=F0=9F=98=B3).
>>> Finally, after all that effort, there was still a small leak from the
>>> rear main which I finally resolved by installing my PCV.
>>> kit.
>>> https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-soluti=
on/
>>>
>>> In future I'm not going to bother with the seal kit and just fot the PC=
V.
>>>
>>> M
>>>
>>> On Fri., Nov. 3, 2023, 11:19 p.m. Michael Oritt, <
>>> michael.oritt@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I'm having my 100's engine done this winter and though it's not a
>>>> terrible leaker I''d like to install a rear seal kit to tighten things=
up
>>>> as much as possible.
>>>> I know there are several different kits available and would appreciate
>>>> any input on which one to select along with installation tips.
>>>>
>>>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>>>
>>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>>>>
>>>>
--00000000000074e64c060968cb3d
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><div =
dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-size:12.8px"><b>Q--Michael I would be interested=
to know why you are thinking that a rebuild is necessary at this stage. Th=
e drop in oil pressure alone would IMHO not be reason enough. Is the engine=
making odd noises or burning excessive amounts of oil? Perhaps a "rin=
g and bearing" job would be the best way to go.</b></div><div dir=3D"a=
uto" style=3D"font-size:12.8px"><b><br></b></div><div style=3D"font-size:12=
.8px"><b>A--There are no odd noises and oil consumption isn't bad, thou=
gh it is more than when the engine was fresh.=C2=A0 I have not done a recen=
t=C2=A0compression check either static or dynamic but as said oil pressure =
has dropped considerably from when the engine was fresh perhap 15-20 psi ac=
ross the board with hot idle pressure of 10-15 psi.=C2=A0 I did replace the=
oil pump last year which resulted in perhaps a 5 psi increase in pressure =
and as a further experiment I also replaced the bearing shells that were ac=
cessible by dropping the sump (lower shells=C2=A0to cylinders 3 and 4) but =
neither of the last two resulted in a substantial increase in pressure.=C2=
=A0 Naturally=C2=A0if the teardown shows a lot of wear in rings and bores I=
'd be happy to keep things to that.=C2=A0</b></div><div dir=3D"auto" st=
yle=3D"font-size:12.8px"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-size:12.=
8px">Q2--My car has an early aftermarket valve cover and looks like the one=
s sold by Ray Juncal minus one fin and with a flat versus a slightly convex=
top surface.=C2=A0 There is no vent nipple and it has a spring-loaded fill=
er cap that probably does not make a tight seal though there is no oil blow=
-by.=C2=A0 Is there a real=C2=A0advantage to installing a PCV valve and if =
so where should the hose terminate?=C2=A0 I removed the original LeMans kit=
CAB some time back and would prefer not to refit it.</div><div dir=3D"auto=
" style=3D"font-size:12.8px"><b>The PCV system that I've developed does=
n't involve the rocker cover at all and, by the sounds of it, your engi=
ne would be an ideal candidate. Check the web site that I showed=C2=A0 ... =
the system is virtually invisible but does require the replacement of the m=
anifold balance pipe.</b></div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-size:12.8px"=
><b><br></b></div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px"><b>A--Can you please give=
me the website address?</b></div></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote=
"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 11:17=E2=80=
=AFPM Michael Salter <<a href=3D"mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com";>michael=
salter@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" =
style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);pa=
dding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto"><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px;color:rgb(=
51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto">Q1--As said earlier my car does not have a great a=
mount of leakage through the cotter pin in the bell housing, though I do se=
em to remember that it leaked more after the engine was freshly rebuilt abo=
ut 70K miles ago.=C2=A0 My oil pressure has also dropped about 10-15 psi fr=
om where it was after the rebuild.=C2=A0 Assuming that a fresh engine will =
have higher oil pressure will that result in higher crankcase pressures whi=
ch would tend to increase leakage past the scroll seal?</div><div style=3D"=
font-size:12.8px;color:rgb(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto"><b>Michael I would be i=
nterested to know why you are thinking that a rebuild is necessary at this =
stage. The drop in oil pressure alone would IMHO not be reason enough. Is t=
he engine making odd noises or burning excessive amounts of oil? Perhaps a =
"ring and bearing" job would be the best way to go.</b></div><div=
style=3D"font-size:12.8px;color:rgb(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto"><br></div><di=
v style=3D"font-size:12.8px;color:rgb(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto">Q2--My car h=
as an early aftermarket valve cover and looks like the ones sold by Ray Jun=
cal minus one fin and with a flat versus a slightly convex top surface.=C2=
=A0 There is no vent nipple and it has a spring-loaded filler cap that prob=
ably does not make a tight seal though there is no oil blow-by.=C2=A0 Is th=
ere a real=C2=A0advantage to installing a PCV valve and if so where should =
the hose terminate?=C2=A0 I removed the original LeMans kit CAB some time b=
ack and would prefer not to refit it.</div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px;c=
olor:rgb(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto"><b>The PCV system that I've developed=
doesn't involve the rocker cover at all and, by the sounds of it, your=
engine would be an ideal candidate. Check the web site that I showed=C2=A0=
... the system is virtually invisible but does require the replacement of =
the manifold balance pipe.</b></div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px;color:rg=
b(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px;color:r=
gb(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto">M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><di=
v dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat., Nov. 4, 2023, 6:06 p.m. Michael=
Oritt, <<a href=3D"mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com"; target=3D"_blank">mi=
chael.oritt@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_qu=
ote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,20=
4);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D=
"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Michael--</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D=
"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"colo=
r:rgb(51,51,255)">Thanks for your input and I am certainly willing to forgo=
the expense and trouble of having a rear seal fit if there is a strong cha=
nce of it not being successful.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_defaul=
t" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Besides (being an aging male) I should pr=
obably have the grace to allow my car to have an occasional drip or two.</d=
iv><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><d=
iv class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">A couple of quest=
ions....</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><=
br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Q1--As=
said earlier my car does not have a great amount of leakage through the co=
tter pin in the bell housing, though I do seem to remember that it leaked m=
ore after the engine was freshly rebuilt about 70K miles ago.=C2=A0 My oil =
pressure has also dropped about 10-15 psi from where it was after the rebui=
ld.=C2=A0 Assuming that a fresh engine will have higher oil pressure will t=
hat result in higher crankcase pressures which would tend to increase leaka=
ge past the scroll seal?</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:r=
gb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51=
,51,255)">Q2--My car has an early aftermarket valve cover and looks like th=
e ones sold by Ray Juncal minus one fin and with a flat versus a slightly c=
onvex top surface.=C2=A0 There is no vent nipple and it has a spring-loaded=
filler cap that probably does not make a tight seal though there is no oil=
blow-by.=C2=A0 Is there a real=C2=A0advantage to installing a PCV valve an=
d if so where should the hose terminate?=C2=A0 I removed the original LeMan=
s kit CAB some time back and would prefer not to refit it.</div><div class=
=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"g=
mail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Thanks--Michael Oritt=C2=A0</d=
iv><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">=C2=A0 =C2=
=A0<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D=
"gmail_attr">On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 4:04=E2=80=AFPM Michael Salter <<a h=
ref=3D"mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com"; rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank"=
>michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail=
_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204=
,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">I've fitted a couple of those=
kits and have been somewhat underwhelmed.=C2=A0<div dir=3D"auto">Firstly y=
ou have to be VERY careful with the rear cap machining alignment,=C2=A0 def=
initely a case of measure twice, cut once. I would strongly recommend that =
the cap is in place on the block for this operation.</div><div dir=3D"auto"=
>Secondly I was very disappointed to find that the designers decided that i=
t was just too much effort to utilize the 3 tapped holes already in the blo=
ck to secure the upper half of the seal holder and instead required that on=
e drill and tap 2 more holes for that purpose.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"=
>Thirdly, and I appreciate that there is possibly no way around this but, t=
he scroll on the crankshaft has to be machined off which is something that =
you should have your crank grinder do when the crank is being machined. I d=
id mine in my 8" lathe and it's pretty scary having that huge hunk=
of steel spinning between centers (don't forget to disable the chuck b=
rake ... rather frightening to notice the chuck winding off the spindle as =
you power it down=F0=9F=98=B3=F0=9F=98=B3).</div><div dir=3D"auto">Finally,=
after all that effort, there was still a small leak from the rear main whi=
ch I finally resolved by installing my PCV.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">=
=C2=A0kit.=C2=A0<a href=3D"https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100=
-engine-oil-leak-solution/" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">https://pr=
ecisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-solution/</a></div><=
div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">In future I'm not going to=
bother with the seal kit and just fot the PCV.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br>=
</div><div dir=3D"auto">M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div di=
r=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri., Nov. 3, 2023, 11:19 p.m. Michael Or=
itt, <<a href=3D"mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com"; rel=3D"noreferrer" targ=
et=3D"_blank">michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote c=
lass=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px soli=
d rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_d=
efault" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">I'm having my 100's engine d=
one this winter and though it's not a terrible leaker I''d like=
to install a rear seal kit to tighten things up as much as possible.<br>I =
know there are several different kits available and would appreciate any in=
put on which one to select along with installation tips.<br><br>Best--Micha=
el Oritt<br></div></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.htm=
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</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>
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