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Re: [Healeys] Shock mount--BJ8

To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shock mount--BJ8
From: Tom Felts via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2023 19:16:53 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
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Thread-topic: Shock mount--BJ8
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So---has anyone here installed an adjustable shock mount? Seems that may be the 
answer to getting proper camber even if you don't align it quite right. 
Tom 


From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net> 
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, September 6, 2023 10:39:00 AM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shock mount--BJ8 

Great question, right up there with 'What is the meaning of life?' and one I've 
pondered myself. 

I know the shop manual has a frame dimensional diagram, but I don't know if it 
precisely locates the shock mounts (I'm to lazy to dig the book out right now, 
and your frame is probably tweaked a bit anyway). All I've come up with is make 
your best guess by, as you suggested, measuring the 'good' side best you can 
then tack weld the mount (you should get close and, who knows, you might get 
lucky). Then, install shock and A-arm and GENTLY lower the frame to the ground 
and check alignment. Repeat as necessary then weld it in. I bought the full rig 
from these guys, since I have 5 cars and 2 tractors so it's 'justified' (NFI): 

[ https://wheelalignmenttools.com/store/ | 
https://wheelalignmenttools.com/store/ ] 

... and have been happy with it (support is good, and they're based, IIRC, in 
Fremont, CA). I got a 'pro' alignment--with the fancy laser rig--for my Mustang 
and their rig pretty much agrees with it. Camber is the easy part, a direct 
measurement, but caster is a bit trickier. Make sure to account for the slope 
of the floor when taking readings. 

I used offset trunnion bushings on my BJ8 and adjustable camber plates on the 
BN2 to set camber at zero, and feel handling is better than 'book' setting 
(1deg pos). Caster is less than 'book' on both, which is less than used on most 
other cars, but both track just fine. I set toe at just a hair in; but haven't 
put enough miles on either to see if tire wear is improved (you'd need to start 
with new tires). 

Bob 


On 9/5/2023 12:09 PM, Tom Felts via Healeys wrote: 



Years ago I had the right shock mount replaced because of a bad metal tear in 
it. I'm not even sure who did the job for me. Over the years since I have had 
bad outside tire wa=ear on that side. I'm thinking that when it was welded on, 
it was not placed properly. 

So----If I remove it and have it replaced with a new one, how do I do about 
lining it up properly? 

I've thought about having the alignment equipment hooked up with the unattached 
shock attached and moving the tire in or out until I get the proper camber then 
clamping it to the tower and welding. That might be an impossible thing to do 
with the heavy shock hanging on. Is it possible to measure the good (original) 
side and place it according to that side? 

Ideas? 

Thanks--Tom 

Other than than that, how to I alignment it properly? 





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<html><body><div style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 
12pt; color: #000000"><div>So---has anyone here installed an adjustable shock 
mount?&nbsp; Seems that may be the answer to getting proper camber even if you 
don't align it quite right.</div><div>Tom</div><div><br></div><hr id="zwchr" 
data-marker="__DIVIDER__"><div data-marker="__HEADERS__"><b>From: </b>"Bob 
Spidell" &lt;bspidell@comcast.net&gt;<br><b>To: </b>"healeys" 
&lt;healeys@autox.team.net&gt;<br><b>Sent: </b>Wednesday, September 6, 2023 
10:39:00 AM<br><b>Subject: </b>Re: [Healeys] Shock 
mount--BJ8<br></div><div><br></div><div data-marker="__QUOTED_TEXT__">Great 
question, right up there with 'What is the meaning of life?'
    and one I've pondered myself. <br>
    <br>
    I know the shop manual has a frame dimensional diagram, but I don't
    know if it precisely locates the shock mounts (I'm to lazy to dig
    the book out right now, and your frame is probably tweaked a bit
    anyway). All I've come up with is make your best guess by, as you
    suggested, measuring the 'good' side best you can then tack weld the
    mount (you should get close and, who knows, you might get lucky).
    Then, install shock and A-arm and GENTLY lower the frame to the
    ground and check alignment. Repeat as necessary then weld it in. I
    bought the full rig from these guys, since I have 5 cars and 2
    tractors so it's 'justified' (NFI):<br>
    <br>
    <a href="https://wheelalignmenttools.com/store/"; target="_blank" 
rel="nofollow noopener 
noreferrer">https://wheelalignmenttools.com/store/</a><br>
    <br>
    ... and have been happy with it (support is good, and they're based,
    IIRC, in Fremont, CA). I got a 'pro' alignment--with the fancy laser
    rig--for my Mustang and their rig pretty much agrees with it. Camber
    is the easy part, a direct measurement, but caster is a bit
    trickier. Make sure to account for the slope of the floor when
    taking readings.<br>
    <br>
    I used offset trunnion bushings on my BJ8 and adjustable camber
    plates on the BN2 to set camber at zero, and feel handling is better
    than 'book' setting (1deg pos). Caster is less than 'book' on both,
    which is less than used on most other cars, but both track just
    fine. I set toe at just a hair in; but haven't put enough miles on
    either to see if tire wear is improved (you'd need to start with new
    tires).<br>
    <br>
    Bob<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/5/2023 12:09 PM, Tom Felts via
      Healeys wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote>
      
      <div style="font-family:'arial' , 'helvetica' , 
sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color:#000000">
        <div>Years ago I had the right shock mount replaced because of a
          bad metal tear in it.&nbsp; I'm not even sure who did the job for
          me.&nbsp; Over the years since I have had bad outside tire wa=ear
          on that side.&nbsp; I'm thinking that when it was welded on, it was
          not placed properly.</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>So----If I remove it and have it replaced with a new one,
          how do I do about lining it up properly?</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>I've thought about having the alignment equipment hooked up
          with the unattached shock attached and moving the tire in or
          out until I get the proper camber then clamping it to the
          tower and welding.&nbsp; That might be an impossible thing to do
          with the heavy shock hanging on.&nbsp; Is it possible to measure
          the good (original) side and place it according to that side?</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Ideas?</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Thanks--Tom</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Other than than that, how to I alignment it 
properly?&nbsp;&nbsp;</div>
      </div>
      <br>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  
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