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Great question, right up there with 'What is the meaning of life?' and
one I've pondered myself.
I know the shop manual has a frame dimensional diagram, but I don't know
if it precisely locates the shock mounts (I'm to lazy to dig the book
out right now, and your frame is probably tweaked a bit anyway). All
I've come up with is make your best guess by, as you suggested,
measuring the 'good' side best you can then tack weld the mount (you
should get close and, who knows, you might get lucky). Then, install
shock and A-arm and GENTLY lower the frame to the ground and check
alignment. Repeat as necessary then weld it in. I bought the full rig
from these guys, since I have 5 cars and 2 tractors so it's 'justified'
(NFI):
https://wheelalignmenttools.com/store/
... and have been happy with it (support is good, and they're based,
IIRC, in Fremont, CA). I got a 'pro' alignment--with the fancy laser
rig--for my Mustang and their rig pretty much agrees with it. Camber is
the easy part, a direct measurement, but caster is a bit trickier. Make
sure to account for the slope of the floor when taking readings.
I used offset trunnion bushings on my BJ8 and adjustable camber plates
on the BN2 to set camber at zero, and feel handling is better than
'book' setting (1deg pos). Caster is less than 'book' on both, which is
less than used on most other cars, but both track just fine. I set toe
at just a hair in; but haven't put enough miles on either to see if tire
wear is improved (you'd need to start with new tires).
Bob
On 9/5/2023 12:09 PM, Tom Felts via Healeys wrote:
> Years ago I had the right shock mount replaced because of a bad metal
> tear in it. I'm not even sure who did the job for me. Over the years
> since I have had bad outside tire wa=ear on that side. I'm thinking
> that when it was welded on, it was not placed properly.
>
> So----If I remove it and have it replaced with a new one, how do I do
> about lining it up properly?
>
> I've thought about having the alignment equipment hooked up with the
> unattached shock attached and moving the tire in or out until I get
> the proper camber then clamping it to the tower and welding. That
> might be an impossible thing to do with the heavy shock hanging on.Â
> Is it possible to measure the good (original) side and place it
> according to that side?
>
> Ideas?
>
> Thanks--Tom
>
> Other than than that, how to I alignment it properly?
>
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Great question, right up there with 'What is the meaning of life?'
and one I've pondered myself. <br>
<br>
I know the shop manual has a frame dimensional diagram, but I don't
know if it precisely locates the shock mounts (I'm to lazy to dig
the book out right now, and your frame is probably tweaked a bit
anyway). All I've come up with is make your best guess by, as you
suggested, measuring the 'good' side best you can then tack weld the
mount (you should get close and, who knows, you might get lucky).
Then, install shock and A-arm and GENTLY lower the frame to the
ground and check alignment. Repeat as necessary then weld it in. I
bought the full rig from these guys, since I have 5 cars and 2
tractors so it's 'justified' (NFI):<br>
<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="https://wheelalignmenttools.com/store/";>https://wheelalignmenttools.com/store/</a><br>
<br>
... and have been happy with it (support is good, and they're based,
IIRC, in Fremont, CA). I got a 'pro' alignment--with the fancy laser
rig--for my Mustang and their rig pretty much agrees with it. Camber
is the easy part, a direct measurement, but caster is a bit
trickier. Make sure to account for the slope of the floor when
taking readings.<br>
<br>
I used offset trunnion bushings on my BJ8 and adjustable camber
plates on the BN2 to set camber at zero, and feel handling is better
than 'book' setting (1deg pos). Caster is less than 'book' on both,
which is less than used on most other cars, but both track just
fine. I set toe at just a hair in; but haven't put enough miles on
either to see if tire wear is improved (you'd need to start with new
tires).<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/5/2023 12:09 PM, Tom Felts via
Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:931936097.25209166.1693940992221.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size:
12pt; color: #000000">
<div>Years ago I had the right shock mount replaced because of a
bad metal tear in it. I'm not even sure who did the job for
me. Over the years since I have had bad outside tire wa=ear
on that side. I'm thinking that when it was welded on, it was
not placed properly.</div>
<div><br data-mce-bogus="1">
</div>
<div>So----If I remove it and have it replaced with a new one,
how do I do about lining it up properly?</div>
<div><br data-mce-bogus="1">
</div>
<div>I've thought about having the alignment equipment hooked up
with the unattached shock attached and moving the tire in or
out until I get the proper camber then clamping it to the
tower and welding. That might be an impossible thing to do
with the heavy shock hanging on. Is it possible to measure
the good (original) side and place it according to that side?</div>
<div><br data-mce-bogus="1">
</div>
<div>Ideas?</div>
<div><br data-mce-bogus="1">
</div>
<div>Thanks--Tom</div>
<div><br data-mce-bogus="1">
</div>
<div>Other than than that, how to I alignment it properly?  </div>
</div>
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
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