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After almost 100K trouble-free miles on a Pertronix in my BJ8 I bought
another--'just because'--mainly so I could use the first one as a spare.
Both are wired with spade terminals so as to be easily replaced; though
I would have to cut some shrink-wrap I used to protect the connections*.
The only downside is apparently Pertronix made some changes, probably to
the base plate, and the new one required re-timing. Not ideal for a
roadside swap, but you can time reasonably well with 'time if for best
idle' and 'back-it-off-until-it-quits-pinging' techniques (and the small
adjustments you can make with the 'A-D' knob). You'll need a feeler
gauge--though I'm told a matchbook cover is about right--or, better yet,
a dwell meter to set the points gap (the gap changes as the points wear,
and don't forget to grease the cam). Compared to fiddling with the small
nuts and screws, and the complex 'stacking order' of points pieces it's
a piece of cake (though you do have a couple screws to mess with either
way; I always carry a flexible magnetic pick-up tool in my roadside kit).
*Side note: I wired my on-the-shift-lever O/D switch with spade
connectors, so I can get the knob off/on easily to replace rubber boots
that don't seem to last long (enough). Last time I had the knob off I
discovered one of the connectors had almost worked loose; it turns out
most of these connectors, which often come in a kit, are absolute junk
(made in you-know-where). I bought several kits until I found a brand
that resisted disconnection. Be aware.
On 8/29/2022 7:12 AM, Jim Ryan wrote:
> Just wondering, the debate between this unit and the original points
> has always been that you can replace the points in the event of a
> failure on the side of the road. How difficult is it to replace this
> unit in the same manner if you carried a spare, and what would the
> cost be for that spare? I'm referring to a1958 Bugeye here.
>
> On Mon, Aug 29, 2022, 8:21 AM patrick williams <2x2doc@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> It's been close to 20 years ago, but Jeff rebuilt my distributor,
> including the vacuum advance diaphram, and put in a pertronix
> unit. I'm very happy with the results.
> Pat Williams
> 1960 BT7
>
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After almost 100K trouble-free miles on a Pertronix in my BJ8 I
bought another--'just because'--mainly so I could use the first one
as a spare. Both are wired with spade terminals so as to be easily
replaced; though I would have to cut some shrink-wrap I used to
protect the connections*. The only downside is apparently Pertronix
made some changes, probably to the base plate, and the new one
required re-timing. Not ideal for a roadside swap, but you can time
reasonably well with 'time if for best idle' and
'back-it-off-until-it-quits-pinging' techniques (and the small
adjustments you can make with the 'A-D' knob). You'll need a feeler
gauge--though I'm told a matchbook cover is about right--or, better
yet, a dwell meter to set the points gap (the gap changes as the
points wear, and don't forget to grease the cam). Compared to
fiddling with the small nuts and screws, and the complex 'stacking
order' of points pieces it's a piece of cake (though you do have a
couple screws to mess with either way; I always carry a flexible
magnetic pick-up tool in my roadside kit). <br>
<br>
*Side note: I wired my on-the-shift-lever O/D switch with spade
connectors, so I can get the knob off/on easily to replace rubber
boots that don't seem to last long (enough). Last time I had the
knob off I discovered one of the connectors had almost worked loose;
it turns out most of these connectors, which often come in a kit,
are absolute junk (made in you-know-where). I bought several kits
until I found a brand that resisted disconnection. Be aware.<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/29/2022 7:12 AM, Jim Ryan wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAEajuYw_6vpkMF+VO4GN_t20hHmzGJxJ=6tC6vbqDj-2FvJ=2A@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="auto">Just wondering, the debate between this unit and
the original points has always been that you can replace the
points in the event of a failure on the side of the road. How
difficult is it to replace this unit in the same manner if you
carried a spare, and what would the cost be for that spare? I'm
referring to a1958 Bugeye here.</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Aug 29, 2022, 8:21 AM
patrick williams <<a href="mailto:2x2doc@gmail.com";
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">2x2doc@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="ltr">It's been close to 20 years ago, but Jeff
rebuilt my distributor, including the vacuum advance
diaphram, and put in a pertronix unit. I'm very happy with
the results.
<div>Pat Williams</div>
<div>1960 BT7</div>
</div>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
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