Hi Tom, The procedures is well described in the factory manual and is as
Michael Salter describes. Dial gauge will be more accurate but in my opinion
is not needed for this set-up as it is very easy to detect when the hub is
dragging, when it is free (i.e. correct) and when there is end-float. I
recently did mine just using good judgement and it is easy. Also, I did my set
up before packing grease into the bearings to make it easier to detect
end-play, HOWEVER, don?t spin the bearings dry. I used some light oil on them
just for the set-up, then when I had it correct, disassembled it all (noting
the shims I needed on each side), cleaned the oil out of the bearings, packed
them in the time-honoured way by forcing greases in between the rollers, then
re-assemble. I can imagine not everyone might agree with me on that point, but
I prefer it. The Manual for my BT7 specifies torqueing the nut to 40-70
ft-lbs. Since you are tightening the inner races of the inner and outer
bearings, the spacer and shims against the inner shoulder on the stub axle to
create a rigid inner assembly, the torque is not critical and the wide range
allows positioning of the castellated nut to allow insertion of the cotter pin.
It is critical to get this right as it provides substantial support for the
stub axles, which are prone to cracking when the bearings are not set up
correctly (as we all know).
Best, Mirek
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: August-24-18 6:08 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Shims in front hub
What's the procedure for determining how (size) shims to put in against the
spacer? Are they for end float? If so, what is the procedure for measuring
end float?
tIA
tom
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