I watched / helped Dan Masters install the prototype of what became Advanced
Wire's TR3 harness. This is exactly the procedure he suggested. (I do not
recall the part about beveling the insulation, but it makes sense). In 11
years and about 80k miles, I have yet to have a failure ( which, of course
insures a failure soon :-) )
Ken Gano
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 7, 2013, at 2:50 PM, Duncan Charlton <duncan.charlton54@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Chris,
>
> People who have built homebuilt aircraft can get pretty particular about
> making failure-resistant electrical connections. One local homebuilder was
a
> regular writer for the EAA magazine. He suggested 1) use military-spec
wire
> or similar (more strands in each conductor and the insulation was Tefzel or
> Teflon, ie: fire resistant), 2) strip the wire back using a stripper that
cuts
> the insulation at a bevel, 3) "tin" the wire using solder before assembly,
> making sure the solder wicks up under the insulation (not easy to do with
PVC
> insulation), 4) insert and crimp (with proper crimp tool), 5) touch with
the
> soldering iron to close up the gaps between the terminal and the conductor,
> and 6) add heat-shrink tubing for strain relief. Several of these steps
allow
> the strain to be spread more evenly rather than allowing all the flex to
occur
> where the conductor enters the crimp.
>
> Duncan
> (Texas)
>
> On Aug 7, 2013, at 2:13 PM, Christopher Bock wrote:
>
>> Amici
>>
>> What is the best practice for electric connections, crimp or solder?
>>
>> Chris
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
> _______________________________________________
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