>> You should make sure the gauge is correct. That happened to me using and
>> aftermarket temp sender but in reality it was running at 160* rather than
>> an indicated 210*
>>
>> The guy who bought my car told me my temp gauge is off by 30* after he
>> tested the rad and rad hoses using an IR thermometer and a special tool
>> he has for his business and that's with a OEM sender and a fairly new
>> gauge.
I thought about that. Actually had someone trying to sell me an IR
thermometer a couple weeks ago, but didn't think I would get enough use out
of it.
Will have to see if I can borrow or rent one for an afternoon.
Brand new gauges from Classic Instruments with their temp sender. It should
be okay, but I know there are defective pieces sometimes.
Thanks
Daryl
>>
>> 70lbs isn't bad - my car ran an estimated 60lbs.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Daryl Smith" <drlsmith@telus.net>
>> To: "Datsun Roadster List" <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Sunday, November 06, 2005 6:30 PM
>> Subject: Re: Motor break- in, was SU setup for 1800cc
>>
>>
>>> First off, Thank you for all the advice on first startup and breaking in
>>> the engine.
>>>
>>> Fired up the stroker last weekend, it sounded very good but, I had a
>>> couple of hiccups.
>>>
>>> 1. the exhaust manifold @ cylinders 2&3 only was turning a bright cherry
>>> red. I richened the mixture till it was not red. Forgot to check the
>>> timing, but pretty sure that is alright.
>>>
>>> 2. About the time I had the mixture richened the temp was hitting just
>>> over 200*, and the damn lower rad hose came off the rad! Anti-freeze and
>>> steam all over the place! The girlfreind came out figuring I'd blown it
>>> up!
>>> Nobody scalded, no problems elsewhere, we checked it over and found some
>>> knucklehead had forgotten to tighten the clamp. (me) :-(
>>>
>>> 3. The GM temp switch I pulled from the wrecking yard ($2) didn't work
>>> so I had to rig up the electric fan to work manually until I get a
>>> working switch.
>>>
>>> 4. After refilling the cooling system, we fired it up for another try.
>>> Everything seemed to be going well. Good oil pressure (~70 psi @
>>> 2200rpm), temp rising slowly, no leaks anywhere. hmm. Temp gauge kept
>>> rising slowly. Richened the mixture some more. About the time it hit
>>> 230* and was not coming down, even with the electric fan on we shut it
>>> down. Had to put it away for other commitments. !&%$##!!!!
>>>
>>> All told, somewhere between 10 and 15 minutes running time with both
>>> efforts.
>>>
>>> Checked it over a couple days later and had no coolant at the top of the
>>> rad, so I guess my efforts at "burping" it weren't good enough. Hoping
>>> to be able to give it another go sometime over the next week, if we get
>>> some decent weather. I'll top the rad off, check the timing, and
>>> probably richen the mixture a bit more for the next round.
>>>
>>> Any other suggestions welcome!
>>>
>>> On the positive side, I now know all my Classic Instruments gauges work
>>> (except for the speedo - no driving time yet). Tach works off the EDIS
>>> module CTO output. :-)
>>>
>>> Is 70 psi a little high for a stroker with a U20 oil pump? Running good
>>> quality 10W30 dino oil.
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>> Daryl
>>> '66 R series pain in the arse!
|