Sorry, I probably didn't explain this fully. It's perfectly clear to me in my
mind! :)
The two ends of the tube are in the intake manifold, and tube is draped over
the side of the fender. So the water in the tube will settle in the "U" shape
that's created in the section of tube that's hanging over the fender.
Now you will want to set all of this up before starting the engine. Otherwise,
you'll suck all the water out as soon as you plug in the first end of the tube.
It's basically a simple water manometer. The neat thing is that you don't need
to calibrate, since what you are trying to achieve is to have the water level
on both legs of the "U" to be equal.
Happy Roadstering,
Chris
> Chris,
> Not sure I understand this method. Does each tube end have to have some
> water in it? What do you look for? Won't the water go into the engine?
> Linda
> 68 1600
>
> chriscoker@comcast.net wrote:
>
> >My carb balancing tool is simple, practically free, and extremely
> >accurate.
> >
> >If your intake manifold has the threaded holes for the exhaust
> >emissions air pump, you can do the following.
> >
> >Take a piece of clear tubing, 6' or so, and fill it 1/3 to 1/2 with
> >water. Stick the ends of the tube into the holes for the air pump.
> >Make sure you have an air tight seal. Start the engine. The water
> >level will show you which side has more vacuum. This method is
> >extremely sensitive, and won't affect the airflow going into the
> >carbs. No matter how "free flowing" the various tools are that are
> >placed up against the throat of the carburetor, they all affect air
> >flow to a certain degree, and will therefore have some effect (even
> >if only minor) on the ultimate ballance of the carb. You can also
> >use this water manometer to check carb balance not only at idle, but
> >at higher rpms as well.
> >
> >Best regards,
> >---
> >Chris Coker
> >Royal Oak, MI
> >1969 1600 Street Car (SPL311-24529)
> >www.risensonracing.com
> >Independent Amsoil Dealer
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