Buy a used U20 crank and rods. You'll have to have the snout machined but
way cheaper than trying to buy a new H20 crank and rods.
You should also use U20 carbs and port the intake manifold and head. I don't
think the 1600 carbs will pull enough air at higher RPMs.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adam Bradley" <ambradley@yahoo.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2001 10:13 PM
Subject: IF the tranny has to come out...
> I haven't checked the countershaft bearings yet, but if I have to pull
> the tranny to replace the bearings, then I should also replace the
> leaking engine rear main seal.
>
> If I replace the rear main seal, I also have to pull the crankshaft,
> right? To pull the crankshaft, I have to pull the pan, which means I
> can easily replace the oil pump. I'll also have to pull off the timing
> chain to get the crankshaft out, right? So I might as well replace the
> timing components.
>
> I have no reason to believe the camshaft is bad (or the crankshaft or
> timing gears/chain, for the matter) but if I'm that deep in the engine,
> I should have the camshaft checked, right?
>
> If I go that far, I'm already most of the way into an engine rebuild.
> If I'm going to go that far, I'd rather turn it into an H20, if there's
> any advantage to that without modifying the camshaft/head/carbs.
>
> So I guess my question is - If I have to disassemble the engine to
> replace the rear main seal, would it behoove me to get H20 internals,
> and would I gain anything by doing that? Should I stop in my local
> Nissan or Komatsu forklift dealer and ask for an H20 crankshaft,
> pistons, connecting rods and timing chain/gears? Is an H20 oil pump
> the same as an R16 oil pump?
>
>
>
> =====
> Adam
> '70 1600 SPL311-28181
> http://www.picturetrail.com/abend
> Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
> http://personals.yahoo.com
>
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