Adam,
Posted this a while back should help check you suspension. Steve Allen also
posted his web site: http://311s.org/
Todd Osborn
Date: 10-Feb-2000 01:29:41
From: Todd Osborn Subject: Re: Suspension (how to examine)
...
It's fairly easy to check for wear on the tie rod ends (steering arms), drag
link (aka cross rod) ends, ball joints and control arm pivots (swivel
joints). Determining if they are worn out is a little more challenging, I
don't know of any wear limit specs, the roadster manual says no movement
(probably conservative, but suspension failure are *bad*).
The front suspension joints must be unloaded to examine the ball joints, tie
rod ends, drag link ends, steering gear, and idler arm. The process is the
same for the the left and right sides, do one side of the car at a time:
1) Place a floor (or scissors) jack under the lower control arm (use a wood
block to protect the shock absorber mount). Car in gear, emergency brake
on...
2) Jack the control arm up until the tire is about 1" off the floor, as you
slowly jack note the movement of the sway bar. It should track the movement
of the control arm and pivot about a single axis, no lateral movement.
Abnormal movement mean the sway bar bushings should be replaced.
3) Grasp the top and bottom of the tire and try to rock the wheel. If> the
tire/wheel move, but the suspension does not, the wheel bearings are loose.
Grasp the sides of the tire and turn the wheel a few degrees back and forth.
All steering components should move in unison, no movement between
components. Specifically note components that lag one another when you
change directions. Look at all the joints (tie rods ends, drag link ends,
pitman or idler arm shafts) on this side of the car. Very slight movement
means the joint is worn, movement greater than 1mm the joint should be
replaced.
4) Pry under the tire to lift the tire/wheel/steering knuckle assembly up
and down. Look for play at the upper and lower ball joints. Again very
slight movement means the joint is worn, movement greater than 1mm the joint
should be replaced.
To check the control arm pivots, put the car and jack stands with the wheels
off the ground (suspension at full droop).
1) Grasp the top and bottom of the wheel and try to pull in and out. You may
need to pull fairly hard since the springs (stock) will still provide some
suspension preload. Note, I have found it very difficult to move the control
arm pivots when under the load of stock springs. While it takes a bit more
time I recommend compressing the springs with a good quality spring
compressor (you should be able to rent one from your local auto parts
store).
2) Look at the in-board control arm pivot points.
3) Repeat inspection with fore and aft force. A little movement here is
acceptable, greater than 3mm and I would replace.
Replacement of even a few of these part will be $$$, but the car will be
safer and handle much better. One can see why it is so important to grease
the front end on a regular basis. BTW, I would like to make this into a tech
tip -- comments (especially specs) are welcome.
Todd Osborn
2x68 2L (one with perfect front end, the other with bad lower ball joints,
you can guess which I drive).
San Jose, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adam Bradley" <ambradley@yahoo.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 11:07 AM
Subject: Tie rods and so forth
> OK, another "how do I check it" question:
>
> I know the upper a-arm bushings are bad on the passenger side. How do
> I check tie rods and ball joints? What should I look for to know if
> they are good or bad?
>
>
>
> =====
> Adam
> '70 1600 SPL311-28181
> http://www.picturetrail.com/abend
///
/// datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net mailing list
///
|