>> Hello All,
>> I have been doing some reading and some more reading and some playing
>> with fiberglass. I think that I am going to try to build my own airbox-cool
>> air induction system for my solex U20.
>> Why? Why not?? I have the stock air cleaner assembly on now and
>> everybody seems to agree that it chokes the car a bit. It also bugs me that
>> it is sucking in air right above the hot exhaust pipes. I think that this
>> bothers me the most.. Plus,.. what the hell it will be different from
>>everybody
>> else's cars. .
>> I plan on leaving the stock aircleaner baseplate in place and building
>> an airbox to fit it and the surronding area. I will mold in some kind of
tube
>> fitting that I can clamp a hose to. This hose will run up front to in front
>> of the rad and I will cap it with a high flow K&N cone type filter. I am
not
>> really trying to make a 'ram-air' system though this will be a high pressure
>> area. I just hope that I will be able to flow more air at a slightly cooler
>> temp to the carbs.
>> I know that a couple of people are thinking about doing the same thing
>> and I was wondering if you would share any ideas on the subject that you
have
>> had.
Daniel,
I'd think you could repair the threads with heli-coil inserts. I'm not
sure of the size, but hopefully someone else has offered that info by
now. There are a couple of sources for Weber and Solex parts out your
direction. I'll do some digging and forward what I find, again if someone
else doesn't sooner.
Regarding your idea of rolling your own cold air box, you might consider
the following. Use the stock base to make a pattern so you don't have to
cut on the stocker. I plan on doing something similar with the factory SU
heat shield for the L-motors in the 510s. I think the OEM heat shield is
a fair start, but if it were larger it would be more effective.
Anyway, you could use the same idea to create a base for your cold air
box. You could put a pair of oval K & N elements in side the box and run
three inch or so hose to a cold air source, either the radiator support
or maybe the plenum in front of the windshield, if there's room and
access. You'll want to use some sort of velocity stacks to smooth airflow
into the carb throats. APT has some real short stubbies that are really
no more than radiused rings, TWM offers several different lengths if you
want taller. Marc Sayer says that there's no practical real (daily
driver/street) world tuning benefits to playing with stack lengths. All
you need to do is help smooth the air flow into the carb throat.
I'd think that if you allowed a clear space above the stacks equal to the
carb throat diameter there would be plenty of airflow for virtually all
conditions. So..., if you use 20mm stacks on 44mm carbs you'd need
approximately 3 inch tall elements in a comparably sized box. I'd also
think that you'd need to support a box of this size externally to avoid
putting too much stress on the carbs. Something else I've wondered about
is if feeding/ramming cold air into a closed box might not generate
turbulence that can upset the fuel/air mixture. I suspect having air
cleaner elements inside the box would probably dampen any disturbances.
Please post what you wind up doing, with pictures. Speaking of pictures,
you might look at
< http://zcarmag.com/images/shasta/>
and select the second picture from the right in the group that I shot
last summer at Shasta. It's a shot of Mark Nuenke's turbo L-20 that shows
the cold air set up in his 510. This thing has pretty much all the bells
and whistles. The rest of the car is just as well finished as the engine,
too.
PS - I found the info below in my archives, posted by Ted Hedman (LA) to
the 510 list:
Try Toysport (213-755-1177) in Gardena CA. They have a good stock of
Mikuni
stuff. Also, I think AEM (also in Gardena) bought out Mikuni's carb
stock
when Mikuni withdrew from the US carb market. I don't have the phone
number
but any issue of SportCompact should have an ad.
Hope all this helps,
Ron
Ronnie Day
------------------
Dallas/Ft. Worth
------------------
'71 510 2-dr (Prepared Class Autocrosser)
'73 510 2-dr (Street Toy)
|