>Rover heads (better breathing than buick?)
Whatever the difference is, it must be minor. A little home
porting and some oversize valves would make it a moot point.
Since you've got both motors, set them side-by-side and
tear 'em apart. Compare everything. That's what I intend
to do, now that I have spare Rover and Buick engines.
>Buick block and pistons (I think the Rover block may be
>unsalvageable)
What's the damage? Aluminum can be welded easily.
>Offy 360 intake
Doesn't sound like the best choice for your intended rev
range. More of a top end intake.
>Carter carb (wish I could identify this!)
Measure the butterfly bores. That will tell the flow rating.
CFM Model Venturi Diameter Bore Diameter
primary secondary primary secondary
400 AFB 1 1/8 1 1/4 1 7/16 1 7/16
500 AFB 1 3/16 1 1/4 1 7/16 1 11/16
575 AFB 1 1/4 1 9/16 1 9/16 1 11/16
625 AFB 1 3/16 1 9/16 1 7/16 1 11/16
750 AFB 1 7/16 1 9/16 1 11/16 1 11/16
9000 Series AFB Code Deciphering:
Base part number is 9000 and the last three digits refer to flow
rating. Therefore a 9625 means a 625 CFM AFB carb. adding 0
(i.e. 9625) means it was originally set-up for a Chevy style linkage,
adding 1 (i.e. 9626) means its a 625 for a Chrysler application,
adding 2 (i.e. 9627) means its for a Ford application. Adding
10 means provision for EGR.
If the carb is an aftermarket version, it will have a 9XXX
cast in the front near where the mounting stud goes through.
>Rover exhaust manifolds
Can't remember if the TR8 had unique manifolds or not.
>Rover waterpump and timing cover, and pulley sets (more compact?)
>(any comments on the above?)
TR8's used a short water pump and using the standard SD1
set up requires the radiator be moved forward. Might be able
to use the short nose Buick water pump (available from D&D)
meant for a/c equipped cars.
One area where the Buick and Rover engines differ is the
oil pan. The Rover has a front pan and the Buick has a
mid-pan. I don't think a Buick pan will work in a TR7V8
but i've never really checked. I know the MGBV8 guys
use both Rover and Buick versions of the engine but they
may have more room. The Rover pan will not swap directly
onto the Buick block because two bolt holes are in the wrong
place. Should be able to redrill though.
Distributors and oil pumps are different, too.
>As for camshafts, is there any advantage to running either the stock
>Buick or Rover camshaft?
Early Rovers had essentially the same cam from what I can find.
The 4.2 cam (and 3.9?) is supposed to be worth a few hp but I'd
probably go aftermarket. Also, the magazines say the Rover cams
go flat fairly quickly. I'm not sure if that is due to a materials
problem or an oil flow problem (in a sludged up engine). All
the heads that I've broken down have had worn rocker arm tips
(can easily be reground). I wonder if some extra lubrication
would help in that area. Dad says that, back in the old days
(TM), they would lay a piece of felt in the valve cover. The
felt would saturate with oil and drip down on the valves and
rocker arms. Might be worth a try.
>Would it be possible to get more HP over the entire RPM
>by going with a cam of identical angles of grind, but higher lift?
That's what Wil Bridges did. I think he did it to keep his
fuel injection calibration happy. I'd probably go aftermarket
and keep the duration reasonable. PAW sells the Crane,
Crower, and Isky 215 cams at reasonable prices.
> What sort of pistons would have been fitted to my '63 Buick special >engine?
It's a two barrel engine so it would have had deep dish
pistons. Advertised compression went as high as 11:1
for one year only. Olds flat tops will give that sort of
compression. The big question is do you need new
pistons (i.e. does the block require an overbore)?
>I remember reading somewhere that some were around 10:1 in >compression!
If that is what I have, this opens up the intriguing >possibility of using
the Buick 300 heads without any work to
>anything (ie. the compression would drop about 1.5 to 8.5:1?).
I wouldn't bother with the Buick 300 heads at 8.5:1 compression
and the rev range you're talking about. The little engine needs
compression or an increase in displacement. If you stroke it,
then the Buick 300 heads become desirable. Of course, you
could always weld up the chambers (its aluminum so not that
big of a deal).
> Lastly, I gather that the timing cover/water pump assembly
>from a buick V6 will also bolt right on?
Yup, lots of mix and match but make sure everything lines
up and the make your own timing pointer when you find
top dead center. Front wheel drive set ups might have
be the shortest. New timing covers can be had from JCW.
>Also, would the double-roller timing chain for the Buick V6 also
>work on the Buick/Rover 215?
I believe so. Several sources sell the Edelbrock roller for use in
the 215.
Later,
Dan Jones
|