>The reason the left side is different from the right is because the impedance
>on the left IS higher than on the right. You won't be able to see the
>difference with your 2-wire measurements, since the difference only needs to
>be around 0.2 ohms to be significant and your test leads probably account for
>about half of what you measured above. But from what you have found, I think
>the problem is actually before the flasher, and it IS affecting both turn
>signals, however minimally on the right side.
Hmmm. Where would this impedance be? What causes it?
>This is where I suspect the root of the problem is. You shouldn't be dropping
>over a volt and a half between the battery and the "hot" side of the flasher.
>A few tenths maybe, a half a volt tops. (This would work out to about 3/4 of
>an ohm.)
This makes sense. Too bad most of the wires are under the dash... :-(
You'd think that auto electrics would set up to work with 11v or so supply,
since a worn-down battery is in that range. Oh well.
>I'd bet that this is where the problem lies: somewhere between the `+'
>battery cable and the flasher. Try this: *Very* carefully, with the ignition
>already "ON" and the left turn signal set to flash, run a jumper wire from the
>`+' battery cable and the "hot" side of the flasher. If it doesn't cure the
>problem, I'm out of suggestions. If it does, then you've got too much
>resistance in either the fuse holder, the fuse (!), the ignition switch
>contacts, or one of the many connectors. (The fuse should be the greatest
>impedance in the circuit at about two tenths of an ohm.)
Fuse is new. Made no difference (the PO had a 50! amp fuse in one
of them). Ignition switch electrics are fairly new, installed a few thousand
miles ago. However, some of the wires going to the switch are mildly bubbled
(probably by the PO and his 50 amp fuse). I'll check the supply side as
best I can.
Too bad the new flasher is so much more sensitive to voltage than
the old one.
Randell
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